Bali (Kuta - Denpasar - Ubud)

2004-07-05T00:25:00.000+10:00

Sunday 27th - Kuta and HOME!

2004-06-27T13:39:00.000+10:00

My final night didn't end up as big as I'd planned, but I still enjoyed the evening.

Yesterday I spent most of the day down the "Supernova end-of-town" trying to find out the price of small-portable DVD players. The cheapest was about AUD$400, which is more expensive than I can get in Australia (just!). I need to get out of Kuta / Tourist Area if I want to get it cheaper, but I'm not that desperate for one, although I may drive to Denpasar today if I find a local who can promise less than 1 million R for it.

I visited Roni, but he wasn't there, dropped off the last of my empty DVD cases. I visited Dime, and said I would go out that night and prob see him at Apache or Tubes. I visited Made's friend's` shop, but Made wasn't there either. I had lunch at a place in-between Popies 1 & 2 - a small restaurant called FAJAR, which is like the "make shift" javanese ones you get in Denpasar.. very cheap looking and very cheap food, but tasty, just not very hot. I met the 2 guys who had been SMS'ng me for 2 days so they can practice their English there and shouted them a drink. They ordered juice, I had "fried potato", which turned out to be chips - hehe, should've known. (nice though).

ew, bad pic of me!

I got my 64MB memory card from my digital camera transferred to a cd, then went to an Internet cafe to sort through which ones I wanted to print out. Heaps cheaper to get it done here in Bali than at home - HEAPS!!

Now that I've seen the work they can do, I will get more printed today, and have just finished going through the disk again working out which ones I want to print out (yesterday I chose only a small selections cos I had no idea of price). 27 photos in 5R (larger than normal) costed 135,000 to print, including adjusting all the colours of every photo - lighter, darker, bluer, etc.. and cropping. All done while I waited. They gave me 2 x free photo albums (standard practice for them it seems).

I packed up my big black bag which was my original bag that I took to Bali, with a heap of stuff to store at Joni/Ama's. It has things that are useless to me in Australia, but will be very handy when I come back to Bali (or for sis!): hair straightener, hair dryer, about 10 coat hangers, sunscreen, foot lotion, shampoo, bali 4 x electric plug, speakers, language book, etc.

Walked up the street to find a driver to drop off the bag, and ran into Jacko. He convinced me, I think by way of "demanding" hehe, to get on the back of his bike with my big-assed bag. I don't know why I gave in, but here I was, on the back of a motorbike, no helmet, riding around Kuta looking for the place that Joni told me to drop it off at. Crazy!

After we dropped off the bag, he dropped me at that same restaurant between Popies I and II and I organised to meet him later. I bought Gado Gado, it costed 7,000 ($1.60!!), the tempeh was cold (fridge cold), but it was healthy and it tasted alright. For that price, I would've eaten there everyday.... next time!

I went back to the hotel, used the last of the Avocado hair mask and slept for a couple of hours.. then got up, and went to Goes Art. Met up with John again who was sinking them down. I think he said he had to be back at the hotel at 10:30 for the shuttle.

Then I walked towards Tubes, spotted Stephen from Woollongong along the way who told me to go to Paddy's but that place and me do not mix now that Nick is gone, so I continued to Tubes. Just before I got there, I spotted Dime who was sitting in Poppies II with about 5 others, 2 friendly guys from Sydney (they DO exist!), a local named Ali, and a couple of other locals who didn't speak much (which is RARE).

I took some pics, then went to Tubes with Dime. Bought him a Bintang while I had a Bali Cider. We sat at the bar but I didn't feel like talking to Dime, he's very quiet when he speaks, so in places with background noise (and Tubes is VERY loud), it's pretty impossible to hear him and I spend most of the time nodding or saying "WHAT??".

Jacko was meant to meet me at either Goes Art or Tubes but I couldn't spot him.

There is a guy who works behind the bar at Tubes, who is gorgeous but definitely has a Balinese character although has hidden it very well over the past month. One day he's very friendly, the next, he's ignoring me, it's so weird, I wondered if he were a twin at some stage with the complete change of persona every time I saw him or that perhaps that I was getting 2 diff guys that looked the same mixed up with each other, but nope, it was the same guy and last night when I was there with Dime, he was being the "ignoring me" guy again. After Dime & I finished our drinks we walked back to Goes Art in Legian.

It was very quiet there but John was still there.. and boy, he was soooo drunk. It was around 11:15pm, I could no longer make out what he was saying, but I think it was something about not caring if he misses the plane (I think he had already missed it).

Dime & I sat down at a table, I ordered a banana pancake and honey. John fell into a chair at our table and started staring at my breasts and muttering things. It was disgusting. I crossed my arms and stopped talking to him. His words were incoherent, but he was being rude, crude, and making both of us feel uncomfortable. He fell asleep when my pancake arrived, I ate it, paid, then snuck out with Dime. Told Dime that I would be going back to the hotel and that I would prob see him later at Apache.

I came back to Aquarius, and got changed into something where people can't stare down my top :) Then I went to Tubes and sat at the bar. This time, cute bartender was friendly, but was asking questions about Dime. What I don't get, is that this guy has seen me with Nick, even knows the whole "nick & me" saga, so I don't know why he is concerned about Dime, but it turns out he was jealous...... AAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
At 12:30, Tubes was closing, the movie Cruel Intentions 3, was over, and I guessed that Jacko wasn't going to show, so I told the bartender that I was prob going to head to Apache later, and that I was heading to Seminyak for a look first.

My "big night" consisted of a total of 2 x Bali Cider's and a pancake :)

Anyway, walked for about 20-30mins up Legian, got "tooted" at, about 70 times (taxi's "fishing" for business), one guy on a bike asked me if I wanted transport, I said no to bike and that I wanted free transport, he said OK, so I got on the back of his bike for the rest of the journey. He (Made) dropped me near Club Q (gay bar). I walked around, checking out all the bars, but none of them had the atmosphere that I felt like being in, so I went for another walk up Seminyak looking for a place that Jupri recommended earlier.

All I found were packs of dogs and a very persistent Taxi driver who I eventually gave in to. He dropped me at the bombing site, but allllll the way back he kept telling me how dangerous Bali is, and how dangerous guys from Java are, etc. He has 5 kids (Wayan, Made, Nyoman, Ketut, Wayan #2.), he called himself a "strong" man because of it.

I bought some chewy at a "K", and Ali was sitting out front. He can't speak much English, but had enough English in him to ask if I had a boyfriend and to tell me he likes me - UGH. I kept walking to Apache, his friends were on the way, so when we reached them, I "waved" goodbye and walked off.

Went to Apache, sat at the back bar, and instantly, a crazy, jellybean guy hehe, Made Kari aka Daniel, introduced himself and started bopping around and shaking his booty. He was quite a character. I took a few pics of him and his friend from Lombok.

I SMS'd the barguy cos I couldn't see where he was, and he tried calling me but I couldn't hear him, but I got a msg back saying:

"Sorry can't go out because to tired see you tomorrow I love you so much"

What?? hehe. I wonder if they see the word love the same as we do sometimes! This guy hardly knows me at all, oh well - I leave today.

Went home about 3:30am, on the way back, I ran into Dime. I also saw Jacko's friend who told me that he (jacko) had been looking for me, and that he was upstairs at the Bounty. I hate the Bounty so decided not to go. Came back, had a shower and went to sleep.

Today will be "pack everything", say "goodbye" to everyone, update this website.. and

GO HOME!! :)

I had my last lunch with Jupri:

Friday, June 25th, Kuta

2004-06-25T13:38:00.000+10:00

Today I went on an all-day tour of Bali.
The tour was called "highlights of Bali" and costed about 270,000R, which is very expensive, but as it was with my first tour-company, I knew it would be less personal which is the kind of tour I felt like, one where I didn't have to "keep a smile on my face just to re-assure them I'm having a good time".

Tour East picked me up at 9am. I can't remember the names of the places we went, and I've lost the map they gave us, but we drove from Kuta through Denpasar to a village to see how they make a gamelan orchestra. The guys who normally show you how it's done were attending a village ceremony, so the guide just explained the process of mixing 2 parts copper with 1 part steel, etc. He showed us how they play the instruments.. gamelan, bamboo gamelan, wooden flute (recorder), etc.

We then visited an "outdoor" Archaeological Museum which holds ancient coffins of Royal families dating back to 500BC - sarcophagus's (sp?) made of stone, in the shape of turtles, but for a human to fit in them, they would need to be "bent in"! These days, the Balinese cremate their dead because they believe it frees their soul.
We then went to Sri Batu? a place that grows and sells Balinese coffee, fruit, and spices. Cheap - but "tourist price". I spent 470,000 ($80) there on essential oils, ginger tea, spicy tea, cinnamon sticks, and saffron.

Then we drove to the mountains of Kintamani to view the active volcano of Mount Batai. Even with my binoculars, I couldn't "make out" the black lava that was apparently at the bottom, but the view was breathtaking. I was "wowed".. I took a picture, and I hope that it portrays an accurate image.

(bugger.. it doesn't!)

We then had lunch at Kintamani Restaurant which looks out to the volcano/mountains and lake. Very expensive restaurant, it costed 85,000 just for MY LUNCH ONLY! It was buffet style, the meal was cold for us but they "heated" it up after we had already been served which was pretty annoying. I could've fed 6 people for the price of that meal and it was cold, so I was pretty unimpressed and won't be recommending it to anyone.

We then went to a village "Panglipuran Village" to see how the "real" Balinese live. These guys weren't rich, but they weren't poor either, and apparently well-educated. It was very clean, but the old people were a little creepy looking! The tour guide said they were 130 years old, but I think he was lying.. they looked more like very unhealthy 90yos.

There was just 3 of us on the tour, and 3 "staff"... 6 all up. A couple from London (Kirily and Shane/Steve/Stuart? can't remember).. who were both very nice, the guide's name was Wedo, the drivers' name I can't remember, and the "trainee" who was an 18yo training in Tourism's name was enfelo or something like that, he will email me later so I'll work out what it is from that :) Nice kid from Sumatra!

The last stop was Bakit Jatil ? - very nice views of rice terraces and the ocean. I made room on my camera to fit one more shot. I may buy an extra memory card tomorrow, or get it transferred to disk.

I arrived back at the hotel about 4pm and fell asleep almost immediately. I slept for 2 hours then forced myself to get up to go out.

Went to an internet cafe, then went to Tubes and watched a bit of "The Chronicles of Riddick" (Van Diesel.. part 2 of Pitch Black), with a Bali Cider and some good company - the bar staff.

Then I walked up Poppies II, a different end than I usually go, just for the experience. Bought some earrings and more bracelets (10,000 each), and a marble grinder thing for spices and some bamboo coasters (50,000 for both). I took a cab to Papa's cafe for dinner, but when I saw the prices of the food, I changed my mind about eating there tonight.. maybe another time.

Took a white taxi for the first time! You never use the white ones, everyone has a "bad experience" to tell you about the rip-off sneaky white taxi's, but I told him about the dodgy stories and he wanted to "prove" that they are good, so I gave him an opportunity, and he was good. The driver was friendly. When the meter got to 10,000, I told him that's all I was going to pay him and offered to walk the rest of the way, but he drove me back to my hotel for the 10,000, and offered to drive me to the airport for free on Sunday (but I won't be using him).

I tried to eat at Aquarius, but it was after 10 by this stage and they weren't cooking anymore, so went to my fave bar (Goes Art) and YAY, they cook til midnight. Ordered Cap Cay (chap chay), which is cabbage, carrot, beans, water spinach in a yummy soup of spices, which you mix with boiled rice. Healthy and Enak!

Had a few Bali Ciders and Red Bulls, started talking to two other "solo" travellers who had walked in. John from Adelaide and Stephen from Woollongong. It's John's last night but Stephen has 5 weeks to go.

We listened to the manager play some awesome spanish guitar. Joko came in - his wallet was stolen/or lost today (saw him earlier on the way to the Police station to report it), it was his birthday at midnight but he had had a lousy day but still pretty perky considering! We played a few games of pool, he won 2/1 which I think cheered him a little. Then we headed to Paddys. He knows the bouncers, so even though he's "local", he doesn't have to pay to get in like the other locals. Jeez Paddys... Aussies are so... Predictable? Drunk, sleazy, yobbos.. testosterone.. not my idea of fun, so Joko took me to the Bounty - which was WORSE in the "Sleaze" department, packed full of Javanese prostitutes and Young (18-21yo) Aussies, so I suggested the Apache Reggae Bar. We went there, but it wasn't Joko's scene at all, so he said he'd take me somewhere else, up Seminyak.

We got outside, he wanted to hire a bike to go up there, but I didn't want to go on a bike in Kuta. It was 2am and tonight wasn't going to be my "big one", I want tomorrow night to be my "fun" last night, so I decided to go back to the hotel. I gave him 100,000 R to try and have some fun on his birthday (much to his protest), and will see him tomorrow night perhaps.

Just had a shower to get rid of the Paddys smell and will try and get some sleep now. It's 3:30am.

Thursday June 24 - Kuta

2004-06-24T23:23:00.000+10:00

Today is not a good day so far. My emotions are all over the place due to "that time of the month" (yes, again, my hormones must be confused!).

The day started out with pain, so I went down, had breakfast (pancake!) and bought some ponstan for 14,000 (for 6). Dropped in my laundry and then I waited at the Aquarius restaurant for Putra. He told me I couldn't do the tour tomorrow unless there is someone else that chooses to do it with me, so it will have to be the next day. Bugger.

I got ripped off bigtime by a brave, but soon-to-be-hurt paperboy. He sold me a Bali Post for 35,000 R!! I thought it would only be about 2,000 R, but he showed me that the paper said 35,000 , which it did, so I just assumed it was "tourist price" and even though I was reluctant to hand over the money, I actually did. Under his thumb, which I didn't notice til he was wayyy gone, was the real price - 2,500R. I hope he comes back tomorrow, I want to scare him. At the same time, I want to just kick myself for not trusting my instincts. Each time you get ripped off in that way, you lose more and more trust for the Balinese which is sad.

Well, I guess that's another motivator to learn to read Indonesian before next time!

Breakfast was Enak! (delicious).

I walked up to Maula DVD, who I had SMS'd over brekky to say that I will turn up at 11 and pickup 2 of the large DVD holders.

I turned up, and lo & behold, they weren't there. The brother of the guy I spoke with, rode off on his bike to go and get them, so I waited at the shop for about 1/2 an hr. He came back empty-handed and said that they are going to go and get them from Jakarta and to pick them up at 5. I will go back about 7. I wish I didn't want them so much, but the larger cases are better in the long run, I hope it's worth all this hassle.

Next stop, to pickup the custom-made bracelets I got made out of Australian Gold Coins from the shop where 15 guys surround you like a pack of hungry wolves.
You try and tell em that you need your space and that they make people too uncomfortable to go to those places, but they didn't learn - I took a photo of a couple of them "attaccking" a poor Japanese tourist.

My bracelets weren't ready yet, but they said they were, just "5 more minutes".. every 5 mins they would say the same thing. My back was really starting to pound now, so I stood up and started massaging it myself, not that it helped any.

One of the guys (Eric) decided he would try and help, although he wasn't very good, it was still more comfortable having him do it than me...

30 mins later, still no bracelets. They tell me it will be another hour, as they aren't ready! I should've guessed.. all Balinese "5 mins" means 30 mins usually, ok in this case, a lot more. So I headed back here to eat stale (old) but soft chocolate, drink Red Bull, roll around in pain and feel sorry for myself.

I know I've mentioned already somewhere that you should bring your own tampons to Bali, but I can't remember if I said what an absolute rip-off they are to buy here - WORSE than home! Tampax (the only "trusted" brand of tampons here) is more than 62,000 R for a pack of "10".. .10!! Which makes it about AUD$1 per tampon. Pads are heaps cheaper to buy here though - less than 6,000 (less than $1) for 10 good quality and about 3,000R for "cheapies".

I'm liking the "security" of the hotel right now.

Something has "kicked in" and I no longer feel any pain. I'm listening to Shaggy, 50 Cent, and other pop/funk songs, lying on my bed under a ceiling fan, wondering how I was in such an emotional state in the street earlier. On the way back to the hotel, I watched the ground the whole way, making sure not to look anyone in the eye, people were trying desperately to get my attention:
"transport miss?"
"yes, transport?"
"where you going?"
"heeyyyyy honnneeyy!!"
"plait your hair??"
"braid your hair darlingggg??"
"paint your nails?"
"x-ten-si-on?"
I nearly screamed! Most of the time I am so light-hearted about it all, and would cheekily say something back or at least acknowledge them, shake my head and smile, but PMS had overcome me - coupled with the misery of my morning of being ripped off / things not going my way, I was about to burst.. if I hear ONE MORE THING...

and BAM!!

Some guy grabs my hand. I shake him off and start crying saying something about not being able to trust any of YOU people!

A bit of an over-reaction considering all he was trying to do was say Hi, or perhaps going to eventually try and sell me something.

In any case, back here in the hotel, everything is ok now, and I'll try to "behave" better "out there" later, now that I know that PMS "rules me" today.

==========

It's now about 10pm.. the rest of the day was great.. having shopped til I dropped, spent a fortune buying "real" dvds, picked up my big DVD holders for 150,000 each, had Nasi Goreng at the Aquarius (wasn't as nice as usual - had to add chilli and sweet soy). Putra called back to say that I can go on the tour tomorrow afterall. Went to tubes and had a bali cider but felt "out of place" amongst the aussies - I prefer being around the locals now.

I will have another cider at my fave street bar.. "art goes" ? (i think it's called), and then have an early one since it will be an early one tomorrow - they are picking me up at 9am for a tour of Bali.

Wednesday 23rd June - Kuta

2004-06-23T23:09:00.000+10:00

Had fruit salad (pineapple and papaya) and 2 pcs toast for brekky, then walked with 4 x supermarket shopping bags full of empty DVD cases down to Roni's shop (15 min walk).

Then went to the Aquarius. The guy who I had been dealing with everyday trying to get a room wasn't there, but I found out that he hadn't even booked a room for me. After a bit of a discussion with the other guy, they finally worked out a way that I could move in today. Yay. Unfortunately my room is up 4 flights of stairs! I dragged my bags over from the other hotel, over broken roads, gravel, and swerving heavy traffic, then up those damn stairs. Two guys had to carry my big bag up, and they had worked up a sweat by the time we reached the top. The power had gone out in the lower end of Legian St all day, so there was no fan to keep us cool, so I had a cold shower, didn't help much though.

I hung out in my room for a while, then went on a mission to find a larger DVD holder so I can get rid of ALL my cases cos no way am I dragging those 3 huge bags around the airport.

Some local guys on the street (who hang out in front of Bounty, next to Paddys), invited me to Paddys tonight. Will see how I feel.

Junior SMS'd me to meet him & Roni, so I gathered 4 more plastic bags full of empty DVD cases to dump on him, and headed to Flora / Putra DVD.

Damn, I'm thinking Junior is going to end up just like those guys in Ubud! He told me how the other day, I didn't respect him, so he deleted my name out of his phone! What the... ?? I've always been nice to him, so I suspect he is being a typical jealous Balinese, and that he was jealous of me chatting to Roni? I dunno. Anyway, he works until 2am, so I will meet up with him tomorrow before he starts work (6) to maybe watch a movie, but I will have to be on my guard I think. I'm so not used to people being jealous of each other.. not over me anyway!

On the way back to the hotel, I ran into Dime, a shop holder that I've been friendly with (Just walking past), over the past month. I remember him from the reggae club the night that Nick & I went (I remember him on the dance floor with his friend - SITTING on the dance floor, completely out of it). Anyway, I sat and chatted with him for a while and he said he was going to Tubes after he finishes work to watch a movie, then to Apache, so I said I would meet him at Tubes @ 10.

Went back to the hotel, showered to cool down, turned up at Tubes @ 10:30, but couldn't spot him anywhere, but it turns out the movie doesn't start til 11.

Felt myself wishing Nick was there, as that's where we used to meet up. Him, always sprawled out over 3 chairs with no shirt on, with a pile of Rupiah sitting on the table for his drinks/food, and a Bali Cider (or 2). I sent him an SMS telling him that I was at Tubes and wished he was there, he replied back telling me to Enjoy Myself.

I had a Bali Cider, looking for Dime, no luck. Since the movie wasn't going to start til 11, I decided to try and once again find that cheap DVD shop while I waited. As I walked out, a tap on my shoulder. Turns out Dime was in Tubes, just didn't see him and vice versa as we were behind a few poles. We went for a walk, then went back to Tubes to watch Tomb Raider 2.

I ordered a baked potato, wasn't that good, but at least it was tender.

After the movie, we went to Apache Reggae Bar. I liked it, but my back (Ovaries) were in absolute agony, and I couldn't concentrate on anything `cept the pain, so after about 30 mins, I decided I couldn't take it anymore and wanted to go back to the hotel.

Dime's friends had left already, so he was going home too. I decided to "do a lap" of Paddy's, but they wouldn't let Dime in. I thought he was right behind me, so I continued to do the lap - ooooops :(
I ran into the guy from the street, and he tried to "cure" my back but to no avail. I left, and Dime was out the front waiting for me - he walked me back to my hotel and told me how security stopped him from going in - it costs 50,000 for locals to enter Paddys. Jeez.

It's 2am, I'm going to sleep.

Tues June 22 - Kuta

2004-06-22T20:12:00.000+10:00

I am staying at Sari Yasa Samandra Bungalows in Legian St, for 100,000R per night - hot water, air conditioning, TV etc. It's very nice, but so it should be at that price (note: no pool).

My fave place - Aquarius - is too full for me! This is my 2nd night here, but apparently there should be a room for me there tomorrow, so I'll be waiting for their call and packing up tonight.

I can hear a little mozzie near my head somewhere but do you think I can find the lil bloodsucker? Not a chance!

Last night I met Michael (from a travel internet site) at Tubes and we had dinner at his recommendation : Taman Sari Cottages (across from Tubes). The food was not cooked right, I ordered Nasi Goreng: the rice was dry, but it still tasted edible, just a bit bland (the chicken satay was yum). Michael ordered something else and his rice was so dry that he asked them to bring in a replacement. And that was the start of the evening.

He was ok, but he had this attitude that they (the locals) should be treating him special because he was a tourist and I dunno.. I was just a little embarrassed to be associated with him when he made some of his comments. I guess that's why you don't meet up with people from the internet ;) - Nah, that's not true, Ama was awesome and he was from the net !

After dinner and dessert (banana pancake for me, chicken satay for him) we said our goodbyes as I was friggin tired from my long day and lack of sleep, and wanted to nap before going out, so I said that I might meet up with him at Apache Reggae later. It was about 9-9:30.

I woke up around midnight but felt like death, so went back to bed and slept til 8:30am! I got up and had breakfast (3 pieces of toast and 2 fried eggs) but I still felt so weak and tired, so I went and lay back down - and didn't wake up until around 1pm.

I then decided that something must be wrong, so I forced myself to go for a walk to get some water and redbull. I felt a lot better after the walk, so went for another walk up the street looking for cheaper accommodation. Found some "YUCK" accomm so decided to stick to my chance of getting into the Aquarius again. Bought some more DVD's which brings the tally to over 200 now.

Received some messages on my phone from Jupri and decided to go and meet up with him for a chat. I took him to the Aquarius so I could eat a healthy vegie dish to try and build my strength up. Ate Gado Gado (mixed veg with satay sauce) and an Avocado Juice, both were delicious (as to be expected from the Aquarius). Jupri just had an Avocado Juice.

We then went for a walk down Popies 1 & 2 so that he could show me where all the locals buy their DVD's :) Although still 10,000 for Tourists, it was the best place - much bigger selection to choose from and 10,000 is still cheaper than most other places. After I had bought about 25 more DVD's, one of the guys walked me to his music shop where I bought a bunch of MP3 disks which apparently are the video cd types, where the movieclip plays .... Unfortunately I couldn't get it working on the hotel TV, I'm hoping its me and that TV, and not the disks!

(I'm at home now - and it's the @(O* disks! hehe)

That friggin Mozzie is making me paranoid.. can't stop itching my feet, my neck, my head.. etc..

Had a Bali Cider at my fave "street bar" (Art Goes) on the way back, but I was sitting next to an annoying Canadian, so I made it a quick one and headed back here to spend a night watching those mp3/vcds - pity they didn't work. Instead, I showered, used an Avocado hair mask for about an hour, and put the TV onto the Bali channel, and watched the Balinese do the Borong Dance to my "Pop" mp3's ;)

It's approx 2am, guess I should start packing for checkout tomorrow and then get some sleep...

Sunday 20th June - Denpasar and Ubud

2004-06-20T00:53:00.000+10:00

Nyoman turned up at 9am instead of 10, to take me to Denpasar for Bali's largest Art/Craft Festival/Ceremony/parade thingy.

I was a bit off-put by his earliness and he pretended not to understand me asking why and started humming? lalala.... ?? So he sat on my bed while I finished locking everything up. I made him wait until 9:45. Really, I'm shocked at how dense.. anyway, it's not worth it...

Well I should've known, being that I'm too trusting, that wearing the traditional Balinese outfit was a bad idea, hehe. Not even the Balinese wore it, so I looked like a total freak, but I made the guys I was with laugh, and even though they were laughing at my expense, it was good to have a bit of humour over it. Being in a different country has it's advantages, cos well, I wasn't "extra embarrassed" because, let's face it, noone knows me here, I'm just some stupid western chick in Balinese costume.

As we left so early, we arrived around 11 instead of 12, so I went straight to a hotel near Joni's place instead of meeting him at Ronanan Park (festival).

Then, in true Balinese style, I sat on his (Joni's) bike sideways in my sarong, and we rode to his place which was only about 2 mins away, but we wobbled the whole way due to me not feeling safe :)

Joni's place is pretty cool. 3BR - 2 story, but small. He's renovating, it's going to look awesome when finished, can already visualize.

Instead of taking the bike as planned, we were able to take a car, thank god. Joni's friendly nephew came with us (his name is Gidday but I don't know correct spelling)

This place is closing now.. so will finish this tomorrow...

ok, so it's the next day, I didn't get a chance to update yesterday, all the internet places were too slow to bring up this page, but finally found an internet outpost... back to it then ;)

First stop was Joni's sisters for some lunch. Traditional Balinese food. Don't ask me what it was - I ate it, it tasted good, and I didn't get sick, and that's good enough for me :)
Actually, it was pretty nice; spicy, and it was something like minced pork and spice in a banana leaf? steamed rice, some spicy, oily stuff that turns rice yellow, and some banana tree hot-spicy-soupy stuff which was 'way too spicy' for me. I also had a fruit tea which tasted like black currant, but I'd prefer water!

No-one could speak English, not even broken English, so we used sign/body language which will motivate me more to learn Indonesian when I get home. Joni's sister showed me photos of her children and a recent ceremony involving her 17yo daughter getting her teeth filed straight.

We then went to the parade, Joni thought it started at 2, I thought 1, but it was closer to 3-3:30? by the time it got started, so we were sitting on the side of the road in the blazing sun for all that time. There was to be no toilet stops (unless I felt like peeing in a river in front of thousands of people) for approx 6 hours so I was reluctant drink any water (or anything!).

The street sellers were selling real junk. "$2 shops" eat-your-heart-out, these guys 'took the cake'. Noisy, plastic chipmunk-type rackets for kids, bubbles, balloons, parachutes with plastic army men. Absolute crap.

Though.. it was good to watch Balinese people BUYING things instead of shoving it in MY face. :)

There was also food, mostly junk, everywhere!.. including chocolate, chips, fairy foss, icecream, as well as Pork Crackle, Shrimp crackers, Tofu crackers, Rice, Chicken Satay, Pizza, Coke, fanta, water. But no friggin fans... :)

The parade was great, however there was no "orderly fashion", so for the most part, it was difficult to see anything. There were 1,000's of people everywhere. I filled up my entire digital camera taking photos of all the people in the parade.

Basically, the parade contained all the "regions" of Bali, getting into their traditional costumes, including what a bride and groom would wear in that particular region.

They were beautiful and colourful. One of them fainted from the heat. Japan and Taiwan were also invited to participate and they put on a great (noisy) show, which was much appreciated by the Balinese who clapped them all the way to the end of the parade.

I had a good day with Joni and Gidday, they are just so nice, and Joni's laugh is infectious - and he laughs ALL the time, so we all just joked and laughed all day. Joni doesn't need to drink, he's naturally drunk all the time :)

Joni drove me back to Ubud after the parade, which was so nice of him! I invited them to have dinner in Ubud with me, Joni chose a nice fancy restaurant. Food was nice - we got so full. Mine sounded interesting on the menu but ended up just being grilled boneless chicken with garlic and coconut. The price for all 3 (inc drinks and desserts) was 170,000.

After they left, I lay on the bed to get some rest, after a long day. But all I could hear was the reggae band playing loudly in the distance, so I got up, had a shower, and headed to the internet cafe next door to the reggae place again... but it was closed, so went to another one further down the road until I was kicked out at 11pm (closing time).

I then went back to the reggae bar and Made (sweet Made), got me an Anak/Red Bull and I found Sabrina and sat down and chatted with her all night. Oka was there, but thankfully was pre-occupied with another table, so I spent the evening with Made, Wayan (reggae singer), Sabrina, and a new guy called Ziggy who is a German with a Holland passport travelling solo after living 6-7 years in India with his wife who passed away last year. he is 65ish. Friendly and "clued" on. Raka and Fred joined us later in the evening. I only had 2 Arak's (but more than 1/2 glass full of it, so it was potent to me since I'm not used to drinking).

When it was time to go, Made walked me to a mini-market to get my phonecard re-charged but they didn't have one for my phone company. Went back to my bungalow so we can talk some more, but he was just talking about how he feels so much love for me, etc. I just told him I would send him a sweet girl from Australia, and kicked him out about 3:30am after it was clear he was going to persistently try to kiss me! jeez. It was weird, in the end, he acted a bit desperate instead of the nice, sweet Made I had made him out to be.

That's "that" then -- I'm going back to Kuta, I can't handle this, I don't "want" to deal with it, I just want to have a fun, relaxing holiday. :) Those guys probably do this to every single solo female tourist out there...

Saturday 19th June - Ubud

2004-06-19T20:23:00.000+10:00

Ubud doesn't seem like the "place to be" on Saturday nights!

Everywhere seemed dead. I heard about a party @ Exile, but didn't end up going.

Today was spent mostly between Monkey Forest Road and my bungalow. I would go out for 1/2 hr, then return to cool down and re-apply sunscreen on my face cos it's so friggin red now.

I bought yet more Bahasa Indonesia books ;) and a book called "Eat Smart in Indonesia for 9,500 R, which explains the market foods and describes the menus... (apparently - I haven't opened it yet). Although I don't think I'll need it, Bali's menus are mostly in English anyway :)

I had another Bahasa Indonesia lesson, I think if I made more of an effort to use what he has taught me, I'd be able to pick it up easier. I'm excited again about learning the language.

I found a big supermarket and bought a Balinese Calender, a notepad as I've completely filled my diary, some candles, and cheap water.

My heart is light tonight after an evening of depression; I called Nick earlier and left a message on his answering machine to give me a call back and he did. I ran back to my bungalow so I could plug him into charger and talk for ages.

MAN it was good to hear from him and he's so funny and I'm just so comfortable and natural with him.

He has met other girls on holidays previously, twice in fact, whereas I never have. I realize things are different in the "real world" and it is unlikely to work out in the long run, and I don't even know if I'll see him again, and I should just be happy with the time we've spent and keep the happy memories.... but then there is that "what if...?" question, which ALWAYS gets me into trouble, but I'm a curious cat, and I'm going to leave the possibility open instead of just closing the door to opportunity. Who knows?

Earlier today, I walked down to the Monkey Forest with the intention of looking at the monkeys but there was a guy shoving bananas in front of me who kept repeating "For the Monkeys", and suddenly I was put off going by myself, will wait until next time.

I had dinner at that grand opening place again, this time I ordered what the owner had recommended the previous night, Thai Green Curry Chicken, served in a coconut (kelapa) shell. It was pretty good, more interesting was the way it was presented.
Lisa? who was a sole traveller sitting in a table next to mine, offered to take a pic of me with my weird meal, so you'll get a visual when I get home ;)

After dinner, I went to the Putra Reggae Bar again to meet Oka who had SMS's me that he was waiting for me at the bar.

Met some of the nicest travellers there tonight...

Sabrina - 20 yo from Germany who had spent the last 8 months in Australia and was on her last leg of her journey before heading home. She was so nice, so friendly, and very interesting and spoke English very fluently.

Riva, Sarah?, and Mike from New Zealand, they were a great couple, really friendly, easy-going and fun. They are in Bali for 2 weeks, leaving on Tuesday. Will meet up with them tomorrow night for the live Reggae Band if I'm still in Ubud.

An older guy named Hark? from Holland. Friendly. Building a home in a village in Bali somewhere and doing some project to help the community. His English was also very excellent.

The normal reggae crew was there too.

Oka sat between Sabrina and Sarah. I don't know if he was trying to make me jealous, but he was flirting very heavily with both. In one way, I was glad, because it means that hopefully he can find someone else and I don't have to be "the bitch" :.. but on the other hand, considering his friends and staff have seen us together the past 2 nights, it was disrespectful to me for him to act that way - was he looking for a reaction? He reminded me of the guys that are common back in Ballarat, and as the night progressed, I didn't really want to even be friends with him anymore.

I was having a very interesting night chatting to all the travellers (and I wasn't drinking), but was feeling like crap having no way to respond to the situation... I don't know if you can picture it, or if it's one of those "had to be there" kinda things.

So I went across the road and left that msg for Nick (cost 5,000R to listen to his sexy voicemail and leave a quick msg), then went "next door to the bar" to an internet place to check my email.

Replied to Prue's email explaining my feelings at THAT exact time (pre-Nick's call which has elated me). While I was replying to the email, I saw Oka walk off with Sabrina up the darkened streets - I assume to walk her safely back to her hotel or to come on to her. I hope for her sake that she isn't stupid enough to get involved, although I'm sure she's not as naive as I was, she's a lot more aware of the world than I am, even at her young age.

Nick rang me while I was in the internet place, so I asked him to call me back in 5 mins so I could pay the internet guy and run back to my bungalow. Perfect timing because that also meant that I could avoid going back to the bar altogether.

I mysteriously got a few SMS's from a Bali Mobile number, but I couldn't work out who it was, and they weren't going to say, so I ignored it.

Just now, I got an SMS from Oka which I couldn't work out? It said:

"Call Me... He you want too.. I might to in home Oka"

I mean... WHAT THE??

I guess I'm taking the easy way out here, but I'm thinking that if I don't respond, he'll think that I think he went off with Sabrina to do naughties which makes him the bastard, not me for not being interested. It's the easiest way I think.
He then called, but I let it ring out.

Ok, well happy Penny will now try and get some sleep. Big Day Tomorrow, Bali's Art/Craft Festival. I leave at 10am with Nyoman for 100,000R.

Friday 18th June - Ubud

2004-06-18T21:05:00.000+10:00

Woke up late this morning (no surprises there). Still couldn't get hot water, but was desperate for a hot shower to get myself clean and fresh, so walked to reception to ask what the trick is.

The trick turned out to be an empty gas bottle, so they fixed that up for me, then I had a luke-warm shower.

Their breakfast was nice, a thin omelette, with 4 slices of tomato, a piece of toast with honey, and some mixed fruit. I had brekky and tea outside in the garden, very nice.

I went for a walk to exchange a music cd that I couldn't get working and it worked fine in the shop (and later it still doesn't work for me!).

Then I went to Ubud market and bought some hair clips made of bamboo and shells for 50,000 for 4.

Then an excited guy came up to me trying to encourage me to go to a cremation in another village. After a little debate and some bartering, I was on my way for the low price of 100,000R.

It took about 1/2 hour of mad rushing to get there as he didn't want to be late. I was the ONLY tourist there, and the only white-skin person for miles.

Half the children had never seen anyone like me or it must be very rare, they were all smiles - big, cheesy grin, smiles, and saying Halo Bully (Hello, Foreign Person), what's your name, then I was hearing my name every few minutes as the children tried to get my attention so they could smile, wave, and say their English words.

The ceremony was interesting. There were 2 deaths (a man and a woman). The man died from some lung disease, he was a policeman, an important man in their village.

It was amazing to see that many people "involved in the whole process", including carrying the body, it was an interesting experience. I didn't stay to watch the burning of the bodies as the description of what was to come was enough to sicken my heart. Apparantly when they burn the bodies, you can see their arms come out, or legs, and you see their hair and flesh on fire. Coupled with what Ama was saying about the spirits screaming, I didn't think it would be wise to stay.

I felt disrespectful taking photos of the ceremony, but my driver paid a guy and said it was quite ok for me to do.

On our way back to Ubud, we stopped at a local market so that I could buy some traditional clothing to wear to the Art & Craft Celebrations/Festival.

According to the driver, it will make the locals so happy if they see me make an effort. I bought 1 traditional outfit for 100,000 and another for 150,000. I think I look funny and really FAT wearing them. I hope I can get some photos taken anyway cos it's unlikely I will ever wear them again.

Still no word for Dolar, despite sending him a couple of SMS's asking if he's upset or still cool. :( I still want his friendship and I think I hurt his feelings and I feel like crap.

I also saw Made a few minutes before I came to this cafe, and he had obviously been told cos he was acting weird towards me too. Bugger.

Thursday, 17th June, Ubud

2004-06-17T20:38:00.000+10:00

Nyoman didn't get my SMS about cancelling Lovina until this morning because he turned his mobile phone off at 5pm, so he laid the guilt trip on thick, but it's not my fault if he becomes unreachable. 500,000R "for a chance, not a guarantee" at seeing Dolphins, and 2 long full-day drives just didn't make sense to me.

I've changed accommodation. I couldn't walk in bear feet at the last place due to "months??" of dust, the shower didn't work (the water ran out of the bottom of the bath, all over the bathroom as soon as you turned it on, and there was nowhere to put the showerhead so that you can leave it going - only handheld), the ceiling fan would only work on "1", which you couldn't even feel. A Very Different room to the room they gave me the first time I stayed there, but they had opportunity to tell me these things and chose not to, so I left without telling why.

I moved to the middle of Monkey Forest Rd, to a little back place, down a long alley, that becomes an enormous beautiful garden, it's so lovely.

The fan works, they say it has hot water, but it felt cold to me :(, but the room is so open and light that I can see myself staying here until the end of my trip. The walls are missing, in it's place, bamboo windows with flyscreen, which makes the room so airy, fresh, and breezy. I can see the beautiful gardens from anywhere inside.

This place was Nyoman's recommendation, and as they are friends with him, they allowed me to have it at 60,000 instead of 80,000. I checked in, and they bought me tea and coffee to have on my little outdoor setting. This place would be so romantic if shared with someone you love.

At 12, I went and met the Ubud Made (as opposed to the Kuta Made). This Made is pronounced Maddy.

We had a drink with a guy who has born in Mexico but has lived in Seattle for the past 25 years and just got married last week in Bali. He was pretty cool, and I probably shouldn't even mention this, but he liked to talk more than listen which was a bit much.

Made & I rode around Ubud on a scooter. It took about 15 mins of riding to reach our first destination. Goa Gaja "Elephant Cave". We saw some holy water where they used to bathe, and went into a smelly cave. The whole area was a pretty nice place to be but there were HEAPS of tourists. There was a bus load of Czech Republic women, and one of them was stressed out and very rude because she couldn't take her photo of the cave (due to tourists). Diddums.

We then went on a longer bike trip to a village called KEMENUH. Lots of beautiful places to see on the way, nice terraces, temples, and places made of stone. Just so much to take in!

When we arrived, I donated 10,000, signed the visitors book on the side of the road, then rode along further. There was a magical waterfall. We climbed down a few hundred steep steps to the bottom, walked along stones and sat on a very large rock to watch the waterfall and the lake. It was so nice out there.

Made is such a sweet, gentle, loving character, you can't help but feel close to him.
Unfortunately, he really wants a western girlfriend and asked me to be his. I told him about my South African fling and that I still like Nick so I couldn't be his girl. He was upset, but he seemed ok with the fact that "noone" will have me, not just him. They are a very jealous culture.

We rode back to town and I came back to Pramisti Bungalows (where I'm staying) for a shower and to sort my DVD's. I'll go and have a snack soon, it's 5pm.

Went for a walk to look for a certain dish (rice that looks like bread), and some guy stopped to talk to me. He said he would scoot me around for free "for fun" because he was bored, so we head off, zooming around town trying to find a place that sells it. No Luck. Found out that they only usually come out at the market in the morning or along the streets after dark.

We went to a local electric shop so I could get a "quadruple" adaptor (to plug in my walkman, speakers, and charge my mobile at same time). Paid local price - 15,000.
(but it's really crap! I should've bought the expensive one)

Went and ate at a Warung with my new friend. His name is Wayan, but his nickname is Blondy - I've yet to ask how he got the name.

Cap Cay is pronounced Chap Chay, and it's fried vegies. I paid for both meals, plus his drink, and lots of prawn and soya crackers, all for less than 20,000.

He took me to where he works (Swan Inn) and showed me the rooms there. Stunning, and very cheap!
35,000 for cold water
50,000 for hot water
All have double-beds, an outdoor setting that could fit 4 comfortably, ceiling fans, beautiful gardens. Very clean. It's behind Monkey Forest Rd, in Wianu Lane. A short walk from Ubud market.

He dropped me off at my place, and I lay down and listened to music for a few hours, and now I've just got changed again to go meet Oka.

I met a guy named Rama (different Balinese name because he is from a different caste - middle) in front of the same bar that I was to meet Oka. He had a certain "noone fucks with me" type of air about him, but was friendly towards me and talkative. I finished a corn-on-the-cob that I bought from a walking street-seller. It was char-grilled and had been "painted/basted with honey and butter", nice flavour but it was hard instead of juicy.

I then dropped my cds back to my bungalow, then returned to the bar to meet Oka. We went to a small chinese warang for dinner. I had special Nasi Goreng, which was yum. Oka hardly ate anything but paid for both our meals and drinks.

We went back to his bar, then went for a walk to the "Grand opening" of a pizza/bar that had already been open for months (things are a bit backward here - any excuse for a party!). It was soooo coool. We had Arak punch to start us off. Oh my god, so POTENT.

I had a couple of those, then loosened up a little, enjoying the "reggae" atmosphere that the live band gave out. It was upstairs, the walls were missing, so you were outside, even though you were under cover. The music was great - all Indonesian singers, electric guitars, Tamborine, and bongo drums. Bob Marley songs were a favourite, then various western songs with a bongo beat and reggae feel - soooo cool. You can't help but sing along.

I really enjoyed myself. There were people from all over the world, dutch, swedish, danish, english, aussie, different islands, different villages of Bali, German, French.. all soaking up the party, happy, loose atmosphere.

I started on the Arak + RedBulls. They served 3/4 glass of Arak in a glass, so I was pouring 1/2 of it into a separate glass for Oka. I had no idea how wasted I was until I stood up.

But it was too late, by that time, I had already kissed Oka who was all over me all night.

The thing I like about him, is that he just oozes confidences. Everyone respects him. His village wants him to be their leader, and I can easily see why.

And although he has this Leader-manner, he was still gentle and respectful to me. He's a cutie, but I know it was just the atmosphere and Arak that made us get into this situation. He's very intelligent and we can have intellectual conversations rather than eggshell "safe" discussions.

He walked me back to the entrance of the lane of my bungalow, he acted like he was head over heels, so I don't know how I'm going to break it to him that I'm just comfortable in his company and only want to be friends. I have a huge crush on Nick still and even though we are a world apart, I feel "guilty" being around another man. I also have to be concerned about sweet Made's feelings as the Balinese are very emotional, everything is about money or about feelings, love, heart and soul. And considering I don't want either of them, I should find a some way to be friends with both, or else, just leave Ubud.. hehe.. take the easy way out.

Oka keeps sending SMS's and calling. I think I must be sobering up because my logic is kicking in. Why can't I just enjoy the company, call it a fun night, and go on with life? Well that would be because they act like they are married to you or something! hehe.. I hope it will be ok. The last message I sent, said that I just want to be friends.. and I haven't heard back since.... oops.. oh well.

Wednesday 16th June, 2004 - Ubud

2004-06-16T20:20:00.000+10:00

Yesterday I spent the day walking up the other side of Legian St. I had a foot reflexology in the morning, for 1/2 hr (40,000) which fixed my poor, overworked tootsies enough to last the journey.

I wasn't much interested in those types of shops, I think mainly because I have filled 3 large bags and will already have to consider leaving some things behind :(

I bought a couple of sarong-pants, which flash ya big fat thighs when the breeze picks up, which is embarrassing, so I'm not wearing them today, will bring them next time for the beach :)

I bought a few more perfumes, I have about 10 or so now. Jazz, Joop (male/fem), Beautiful, 2 different Poisons, Eternity, Red Door, Tommy Girl, and more, but I can't remember the names.

I got my 25,000 pants repaired - the repair costed 15,000 :/
I'm ready to go home, but still have a week or so to go.

It's mostly the spending money thing that wants my holiday to end. There aint much to do except spend money, and since I don't have a job to return to, my common sense is breathing loudly in my ear.

I'm currently sitting outside on the deck of the Kabu Saren Inn, in Ubud.

The driver was a fucking maniac on the trip from Kuta to Ubud, he nearly ran over children, was careless and arrogant and has a "I own the road" complex. It costed me 150,000 cos I couldn't be stuffed bargaining, but if there is ever a next time, it should only cost around 80,000.

Nyoman, my sister's driver, turned up to the hotel a few minutes ago, and we worked out a 2 day trip to Lovina for 500,000 ($80)
--- plus accommodation (apx 60,000)
--- plus a trip to the hot springs (assume free)
--- plus a trip to a volcano (apx 5,000)
--- plus the cost to see the dolphins (30,000??)
Lucky I'm a western millionaire huh :( :( :(

My Indonesian teacher wants to know when our next lesson is, but I haven't even started to use the stuff he gave me last time. Told him Sunday.

I'll be in Lovina for the next 2 days, I leave tomorrow at 10am. Then I go to Denpasar with Joni the next day (Sat), for Bali's largest Art & Craft Festival. Maybe pick up some cheap paintings there. Why do I need paintings? :/

Went to Verona Spa again, had an acupressure massage, facial, pedicure and manicure for 205,000 R

Went for a walk, ran into Agus, who had already sent me a few SMS's that day, told him in a very firm, but friendly way, that I won't be spending any time or money with him. He apologised for last week and specified that he wanted to sit down with me and explain things. Thanks but no thanks.

Had lunch at a nice quiet place filled with paintings on every bit of available space on the walls. Kinda weird but gives you something to look at. The waitress was genuinely friendly and really interested to speak with me, probably the nicest "genuine" female I've met in Bali. I spoke with her until the meal (nasi goreng) was ready. It was pretty nice (and cheap = 7500).

While I was eating, another local sat down @ a nearby table with a drink and started up a conversation. Another tour guide!! But as he was friendly, spoke English fluently and wasn't pushy, I listened to what he had to say about his upcoming trip to Australia in July, his job trekking up the volcanos, the sacrifices of cows and other animals that they offer the volcano (and why) and read other travellers reviews and saw photos. It was very tempting.

Actually, the more I spoke to him, the more I realized that the "special" price that Nyoman had given for our 2 day trip to Lovina was more than double the going rate.

I swapped phone numbers with my new friend "Bello", and said that I would go on my next trip to Bali, or this trip if I got a chance, and offered him a room @ my place if he ends up staying in Victoria on his Aussie adventure.

When walking past a club, I met another friendly soul called Made (yep, another one). A young-looking 30year old (looks about 24). He promised to show me some waterfalls and birds tomorrow... and, for a nice change, he will do it for free.

Then his manager showed up and instantly we hit it off. They call him Dolar, but his name is Oka and he has been around the world, worked on cruise ships, lived in Melbourne, and now is a bar manager at one hotel and a manager of that bar.

I went for a walk around the town by myself promising that I would have a drink with him later.

I bought a couple of mini-cookbooks (Indonesian), and some original cd's for 40,000 each, and a DVD holder - finally a solution to my space problem, it's the only way I think I'll be able to fit everything in - leave the "cases" of the DVDs in Bali :(

I took the stuff back to my dusty "wouldn't wear bear feet in here if you paid me" room, and then headed back to the bar.

We chatted for hours, and he is urging me to stay in Bali, not that I wasn't seriously considering it earlier :) I won't be staying this trip though.

I SMS's Nyoman to cancel our trip tomorrow but haven't heard back from him. Hope he doesn't show. It's 3am, so I'll probably be sleeping if he turns up at 10!

14th June - Monday

2004-06-14T20:14:00.000+10:00

Had breakfast with Fred again. With brekky being free, its tempting to always have the best, but after today, banana pancake, porridge, scrambled egg, and orange juice!! I think I'll be healthy from now on and just have fruit.

Walked to Supernova, bought a cd/mp3/vcd player for only 600,000 R, which is half what I was going to pay in the Martahari.

Bought an enormous suitcase for about $60 Australian in the Martahari. Bargain. Took a cab back to the hotel.

Packed my new suitcase full of my 150 or so DVDs :)
It almost completed filled it, maybe I won't worry about bringing clothes back with me to Australia, hehehe.

Went for another walk up the other end of Legian St, to another Martahari, bought 3 x Indonesian Language books, a map of Ubud, and some bargain Titanium Batteries.

Bought some Joop, male & female, for 50,000, from an arrogant pushy jerk.

Bought some speakers so I can listen to CDs in my hotel room.

Had lunch @ some gallery place near Paddys. Wow. It looks like "white tablecloth" dining, in an outdoor environment, surrounding a beautiful blue pool. The prices are reasonable (from 18,000 to 40,000), although you have to watch the extras that they add without asking, such as rice with a non-rice dish, will add more to your bill, and they assume you want rice so the question is not asked. I had a dish called Apar Apar (I think), which is steamed water spinach and bean sprouts with freshly grated coconut & lime and steamed rice. I'll definitely be back in the future. Best experienced with a group though.

I've spent the rest of the day in the hotel with my cd player and language books.

13th June - Sunday

2004-06-13T21:29:00.000+10:00

Got up around 8:30, still bloody tired though. Nick said yesterday that I gave him the flu, but as I didn't feel sick, I assumed he got it from his tendency to share his drinks with everyone, but perhaps I have it slightly since I feel so tired. Either that, or it could just be the heat or my restless sleeping habits.

Today I had breakfast with Fred. A banana pancake drizzled with honey and a scrambled egg.

I then dropped some laundry in, and went for a walk to the mardihadi (ugh, can never spell it right) shopping centre.

Then I went for a walk to Putra's DVD shop - the first guy I bought DVDs from when I first got to Bali, opposite the Flora Beach Hotel. Rocky (Roni) was happy to see me, and Junior (staff of Flora) spotted me and came over to confess his love (he was only joking). He also invited me to his village to watch some of my dvds, which I brushed off at the time, but it sounds alright. I'll see how the following weeks go.

I then walked to Supernova to buy a portable walkman, cos I'm missing music like crazy, but all the electronic shops were closed (it's Sunday!). SO I'll try tomorrow.

Shopping took up most of the day. I bought some more DVDs on the walk home, and made them play all of them before I paid ;)

It was 4:30 by the time I got back to the Hotel. I had a shower, changed clothes, and went for a walk for food. I'm sitting at TJ's restaurant - a mexican place which comes highly recommended by all.

And it was a really nice change. About 36,000 for a meal though, so I won't be doing it again. The atmosphere and food were really good though.

I then walked to the beach to watch the sunset. I met another Wayan, who told me about how he lost his Australian girlfriend at the Sari club. His story was so sad. He told how they fell in love, and were planning to get married in 1 month, and they went to the Sari Club, he went to go buy some cigarettes, and came back and saw bodies all of the place, people on fire, everyone screaming for help, begging for help. He searched desperately for his girlfriend, he eventually found the black remains of her :( He didn't know what to do, so he sat down and held her dead charcoaled body, and got her skin and body bits all over him. Man, I just didn't know what to say. He said he wanted to kill the terrorists, but the police held him back.

I watched the sunset, then found this internet cafe, so now I'm all caught up...

I'll be in Kuta just a couple more days, then I'll head back to Ubud.

12th June - Saturday - Kuta

2004-06-12T21:08:00.000+10:00

Yesterday was great.

I called Nick first thing and asked him to meet me at McDonalds at 12:30
We met up, had some juices at the juice bar, and I confessed that I wanted to go after him last night to call him back. We went and lay on the beach for a few hours, talking and frying in the sun. He held my hand, so sweet.

I just love those first days of meeting someone, where you know you are both attracted to each other, and every small touch is magical.

I needed to go back to the hotel to use the loo, so asked him to walk back with me.
I had a cold shower and asked him if he'd like one. He took it as a come-on, had a shower, and called me in. I don't know who's reading this, so I'll skip the details even though it's all innocent! I feel so comfortable with him, we are so compatible. Anyway, he went back to his hotel about 4 hours later, and myself, I went for a walk along the beach to the shopping centre - on the hunt for some western-style tampons. Unfortunately my sister was right - there is "no such thing" in Bali.

I bought the most discreet package I could find, which was still too big for my bag, and then tried to find somewhere "without the hassling locals", so that I could empty the contents in my bag and discard the box. But EVERY FRIGGIN time I found an empty corner, someone would stop to either try and sell me something, or ask what I was doing!!
It was embarrassing yet also slightly amusing at the same time.

I met up with Nick at the Aussie-type bar in Popies Lane 2. He was really affectionate and just a happy guy to be around.

I decided to take him "somewhere else" for dinner, as he's a man of habit and I was sure that the Aussie place wouldn't be as tasty as a local's restaurant.
We had a yummo dinner at the front of the Aquarius Hotel in Legian st. Then we went to another quiet bar in Legian St (Art Goes) for a drink. Then we bought a couple of take-aways and went back to his hotel about 9ish with the intention of getting 1-2 hours sleep before hitting the nightlife later.

We didn't end up going out. We tried to get some sleep, but I just couldn't sleep (I have the same problem at home when others are in my house, very vivid dreams while still being awake, and I talk, etc). I decided to head back to my hotel. It's Nick's last night in Bali, so he came with me!

We slept in separate beds. I checked out and have moved my stuff to the same restaurant where we ate last night. Only 75,000 per night and right in the heart of Legian St. I meet Nick here at 12:30 for lunch and a last goodbye.

Wow did he look sexy today. Instead of his beach shorts and thongs which is all I've seen him in since we met, he was dressed in jeans, heavy boots, and an open turquoise shirt.

We had lunch and then we went upstairs to where I'm staying so I could give him my address, phone numbers, etc. We lay down and reminisced over the past couple of days, and the first days that we met. The "could've beens", the "funny things", and the "Maybe's".

I've never been this comfortable and open with a man before. He's given me hope that there are perhaps more men like him in the world. And maybe, if he ever visits Australia, or me U.A.E, or wherever the hell he is, things might get more serious, but for now, I'm happy just thinking about the private things he and I shared, that made the short term relationship very special.

After he left, I went on a mission to find Bali Gong - a DVD place my sister recommended. They aren't as cheap as the other places, but they were really nice people and it wasn't that much dearer. The owner used to live in Sydney, though is Indonesian. I bought about 60 of them :)

I took a cab back to my hotel, even though, to this day, I still have no idea the name of this place.

Nick made me promise that I would get out in public with my bathers on, so I got changed and went down to the hotel pool. I can't swim, so was too embarrassed to take a chance on jumping in with other tourists watching, so I lay on the comfy chairs and drifted in and out of sleep.

I noticed a guy mucking around with a scooter in the hotel carpark and when he walked past, I asked him about the scooter, and next thing we know, we are chatting for about an hour or so, next to the pool.

His name is Fred, he's Canadian. He's been in Bali for about 8 months now, working on various projects including a new one which is a "Bali is Safe Now" promotion which sounded really interesting and should help the local people a great deal in the long run.

It's 8:30, and I'm going to head out, find some dinner and maybe check out some different bars in a different area of town.

Walked up Legian St, and ran into Jupri. He wasn't up to much, so he walked me to the nightclub area (3km!). Found a nice place to eat called "WOW!", and ordered Pina-colada and Mie Goreng (Fried Noodles with Egg and Chicken). The food was yum but the pina-colada will be my last, it was too much for me. Bacardi, some other alcohol, pineapple and coconut cream. It made me tired.

The nightclubs and bars were pretty empty even though it was 11pm on a Saturday night. They would normally be very busy, but approx 10 days ago, they were all forced to "Quiet Down" by the resident locals who are disputing their invasion of privacy/quietness. So there is a lack of live music in this area and the music wasn't pumpn` very loud.

I was tired anyway, so we took a taksi back to my hotel and parted ways. I had a snooze, intending to wake up and go to Paddys or Studio 66 or the Reggae Bar, but I didn't wake up until 2:30am :)

10th June - Kuta (Thursday)

2004-06-10T20:55:00.000+10:00

Had my Indonesian Lesson at 7:30am - it's going to be difficult, but he seems to think I'm a natural, I don't see it, not at all... not at ALL.

Went for a walk and bought a bag for all the things I need to claim at customs, thought it would be easier to carry a separate bag for that.

Went back to bungalow and packed. I want to go to Kuta for a couple of days, so I checked out at noon. The owner of the hotel and a friend of his who is a driver, waited out the front of the place with me, for my driver, Nyoman, (which is my sister's recommendation).

He picked me up, was the best driver (as in literally, a safe driver). He's also pretty friendly. He drove me from hotel to hotel in Kuta looking for a budget room with hot water and a fan. After about 45 mins of looking, I just settled on a place near the beach for 90,000 (I only wanted to pay 60-65,000).

I walked down the beach to matihari, to buy some stuff, and on the way, a few peeps showed me their dvd shops, so I stocked up for 10,000 and 9,000 each. On the way back to where I'm staying, I got lost 3 times :(

I went for another walk and left a note for Nick at Agunge Cottages that I was back in town and will meet him at Tubes or Paddies later.

I went back to the place where I'm staying, showered, and dressed for dinner.

I had dinner in Popies Lane I - the atmosphere was good, but the Nasi Goreng needed flavour.. so I had to add a heap of hot chilli to pep it up. But it was cheap (about 7,500 - a bit over $1).

Walked to Tubes @ saw Nick sitting there - I surprised the hell out of him as he hadn't been back to his room to get the message. I think it is safe to say, he was happy to see me. Overjoyed would be more like it :) It made me happy to see someone that I like and trust, genuinely wanting to see me too.

We had an awesome night. A few drinks at Tubes, a LOT more at Paddys. We were drinking Arak, a potent 30 something proof drink, and also some expensive Vibes (50,000 Ea - Oh my god). We danced at Paddys and made friends with a surfer guy named Anthony from Brisbane, who must've got drunk and disappeared as he left his full drinks behind.

Nick and I then went to the Reggae Club at about 1-2am. This club was really "happening". Bob Marley songs sung by an Indonesian singer hehehe.. it was too cool. He and his band sounded good.. Nick was up dancin`, and I joined for the last few songs but mostly sat back and watched him and the band and just enjoyed soaking up this place. I loved it there more than the other places. And we were "2" of just "4" white bodies in the whole place, it was a really nice change. It's also really cool to see Balinese with dreadlocks and dancin' to reggae. Some of them were obviously wasted on marijuana, squatting down on the dance floor, looking at the floor, LOL

Nick walked me back to my hotel, I have 2 x single beds, he sat on one, me on the other. We were talking. I was seeing 3 of him except when I shut one eye ;)
Then all of a sudden, he asked "Do you want me to leave?" It wasn't part of the conversation, and it took me completely by surprise.

Earlier, at Paddys, I noticed that I had got my period (not due for another 2 weeks), so in that second that he asked me, I said "yes" because I didn't see how I could get my stuff discreetly and the thought was embarrassing.
He got up straight away and said "cya on the beach tomorrow". I asked whether he could come here to pick me up on the way, and he said that he would never find this place again (which is true - it's a friggin` maze to get to where I'm staying). But I can't see how I'll be able to find him. I think I hurt his feelings with the way that I said it, because all night I've felt his thoughts. I feel really bad and sad and I hope I see him today.

9th June - Ubud (Wednesday)

2004-06-09T10:11:00.000+10:00

I still feel shaky and nervous this morning, ripped off, anxious, and knowing that I will see him today because he sits in the same street I must walk down to get to the market.

I've decided to get pampered today. I found a professional salon near where the place I'm staying, which, for AUD$40, I can get a head/shoulder/back massage (no legs - yay), hair mask, manicure, pedicure, body scrub and facial. Not a bad deal I reckon. It will take about 3 hours and hopefully bring back some confidence.

It's 7:30am, I thought I would head to the markets early. I'm looking for clothes and some comfortable sandals.

As I walked past reception, they offered me breakfast, after confirming that it's part of my price, I ordered a pancake and went back to my room as they serve to your outdoor setting. And here I wait :)

While waiting for breakfast, I studied the receipt they gave me from the restaurant last night. The prices were:
Large Agua (water) - 5,000
Large Beer - 17,000
Gado-Gado (my vegetarian meal - vegies with satay sauce) - 22,000
Tropical Sasur - 23,000
Banana Fritter - 5,000
Balinese Pancake - 6,000
Comes to 78,000 + 10% govt tax = 85,800

I can't help it, but seeing the price of his beer made me think even less of him. I hope I don't run into him today.

Oh man. This breakfast is delicious. This pancake has a banana mixed in and honey - much better than the one I had last night, more simple. The one last night was mixed with coconut and palm sugar, this one was just right, with a splash of honey. They also gave me a plate full of fruit drizzled with honey too - mmmm.

Ok, now to face the day...

Walked to the market. Wasn't very impressed. It looked the same as Denpasar - sarongs and fruit. I bought some incense: a huge packet for 15,000R (found out later that they are about 2,500-5,000 in mini-markets), I'm hoping it will make my bungalow smell nicer, but I might be pushing my luck as it's got a pretty lethal stale smell.

I went to Verona Spa and got an "Experience Package".
- Massage (Javanese Luler - 1.45 hr)
- Body Scrub (turmeric, sandalwood)
- Facial
- Bath with Rose Petals
- Hair Creme Mask
- Pedicure
- Manicure
I was there most of the day, and it only cost 260,000
And oh my GOD, that place was awesome. SO professional, I felt completely relaxed and secure. (Agus could learn a thing or two!) I did see him twice briefly during the day, but kept walking and kept the conversation brief, non-question answers "yes, no" etc.
He has SMSd me a few times since, but my phone was out of credit.

I spent the rest of the afternoon and the night, walking in the opposite direction of the markets (therefore opp. direction of Agus), looking for a phone place to recharge my SIM card and some decent shoes as my feet are covered in extremely sore blisters from their "fashion sandals and thongs". It's been "bandaid-city" down there since day 2 :(

I had boiled rice with soy sauce for lunch, only 2500R

I found some slip-on shoes, which were cheap and slightly better than the ones I was wearing, so I bought them for 25,000R (they tried for 68,000 but they wouldn't be worth $5 back in Australia, let alone in Bali).

Later, after I had replaced my SIM Card (100,000) and bought a new phone battery (only 40,000), I found a fixed-price shoe shop. Lots of comfy's... I was drooling. Bought some sandals for 62,500R, but good quality, and "bliss" from the moment I put them on.

It was dark by the time I started heading back to my bungalow. I had covered a lot of ground and would've considered a taksi back if it wasn't for my wonderful new sandals :)

I heard some chanting, it was the Kechak and Fire Dance. It started at 7, but I don't think I missed much, so I went in for 50,000R. It went for about an hour I reckon, and was a good experience, though the audience's heads were in the way of any good photographs. It would've been better to go with a friend.

Nick called while I was trying on some shoes, told him I would go to Kuta before he leaves (he only has a week left). I might go tomorrow. That way, I can get away from this place for a while, back to the "security" of some friendly faces, in particular, Nick.
I went out for dinner with my new Bahasa Indonesia tutor "Wayan". My first lesson is tomorrow at 7:30am (!) and costs 50,000 per lesson.

I went back to the hotel and had an early night :)

Tuesday 8th June - Ubud

2004-06-08T10:11:00.000+10:00

We watched Monster on DVD last night which affected my sleep. I wish I didn't take movies so seriously :)

Woke up early and packed to go to Ubud. Ama got up and made me a yummy coffee, and we had a long chat about various things in life.
Just as Joni pulled up, we had got onto the discussion of spirits and Ama was telling me that he can see them .... BUGGER! A topic that I'm extra-interested-in, and we couldn't continue it.

Ama heads to Australia tomorrow, and me to Ubud today.
Generally he said that cremations are horrifying for him to attend as he hears the screams, and that burials are fine and the spirit is sent on. He said that sometimes he doesn't see his own reflection in the mirror. Maybe this explains why he has all the lights on at night.

Being that all of my diary is in point form, you probably see just my gullible sides :) but I'll update the diary properly when I'm back on a non-dodgy internet connection.

Joni, Ama, and I drove to Ubud, stopping via the silver shop to pickup the custom-designed jewellery that I ordered. Oh my god. Ok, they did what they thought I meant, and I could see how they thought that, but it's just nothing at all what I meant :( You will have to see it to understand. Oh well... next time I will take photos and bring them with me... as mentioned previously. Lesson Learned.

We arrived in Ubud and started walking down Monkey Forest Rd looking for suitable, cheapish accommodation, but it found us instead. Within 10 steps, we had 2 offers.
1 x 175,000 with pool and air conditioning - no thanks
1 x 80,000 with ceiling fan - ok, we'll have a look.
It's fine. Only thing missing is a fridge but that's not really that important in Ubud as it is a little cooler, so the water should stay cold most of the day, and I like it room temperature anyway (just not hot).
It has a double-bed and a single bed, an open wardrobe, vanity, bathroom with western-style toilet and a huge bath/shower with hot and cold water (yippee!). Ama bargained them down to 55,000 a night with breakfast, but as he bargained in Indonesian, I'm not sure if they will do it when Ama leaves. The place is Kabu Saren, it only holds about 3 different guests at once.

Ama and Joni left immediately, so I unpacked and went for a walk to get to know the area.

Iketut SMS's me so much, that I decided to tell him that I'm not into guys. I didn't hear a peep from him for almost 24 hours, but he's started again. He wants me to tell him where I am so he can come visit. Ugh, I'm getting annoyed at him, even though it's a friendly offer.

Anyway, I went for a walk, and yeah, people try and sell me stuff every few steps, but it is easier here to say no. People are more relaxed, not so focused on dragging you into their shops. However, perhaps they use different tactics to get the money...

I found some clothes that I liked and tried them on. First time I've been able to see myself wearing the clothes before buying them. I bought some pants for 25,000 ($4), and a top to match it from the store next door for 30,000 ($5). So nice and cool to wear.

I met a nice guy named Agus who was very friendly and helpful and not at all pushy. Sat with him for a while. He's going to move to Australia in December to open a traditional Balinese massage centre in Hamilton, Victoria, with his Aussie friend John. He does massage and tours (like nearly everyone you meet here).
We exchanged phone numbers and arranged to meet up for dinner. I went back to my bungalow and had a nice hot shower, put on my new clothes, put my hair up in Balinese style with bamboo, and met him out the front. I rode on the back of his scooter up Monkey Forest Road to a place called Rumah Makan/Warung Makan Restorant (I think!).

The scenery at the restaurant was fantastic. Open-air style, overlooking many, many rice terraces. We sat on cushions on the floor of a gazebo type thing. It was really comfortable.

His price for a massage was AUD$30 (200,000) which is a ripoff. It's very, very expensive for Bali. You can get them for 50-60,000 for 1 hour at professional salons, but he said that he would give me an extra hour and a good price.

He wanted to give me a tour of the East of Bali, what he considers the real, traditional Bali. I'm really not up to spending a lot of money. I would rather spend my money on learning the language, than on tours and massage.

His rent is due next week (300,000R per month), and due to lack of tourists, he hasn't had a job in 2 months. He has 5,000 left to his name.

After a very nice dinner, and great company, I decided 'what the hell', that I would try his Balinese massage that is so good that he is opening his own place in Australia. I would help him by giving him the money, and maybe he can help heal my aches and relax more.

So he drove me to an ATM, then around the city for about 5 mins, then we arrived at his place which is just behind the Ubud Market. It was dark outside and the stars were out. Riding around ubud at night, with much less traffic, is actually not as terrifying. I kinda liked it.

This is when it started to get scary all of a sudden.
We arrived at his place. His place is really... the only word I can think of right now is "POOR". The room has a bed and a cold shower in a separate bathroom. I didn't want to be there, but still I stayed. The light was too bright, there was no fan, it was really hot.

He asked me to take my clothes off. I wasn't sure what to do! Inside, I was freaking out and let my imagination run away with me. I remembered past bad experiences, and also about how much I've been ripped off. I got undressed to my underwear on the bed. He got into a sarong.

He could've handled it a lot better if he had treated me like one of his Japanese clients, but I can only assume that he thought that being a Westerner, that I don't have the same inhibitions as Balinese/Japanese women.

He massaged my feet, my legs, my back. I couldn't relax because I couldn't trust.

I was freaking out, and still I did not leave. Penny, get some friggin balls will ya! I seriously want a world where I can be nice all the time and not feel like I'm getting taken advantage of.
He then asked me to turn over, I turned over, but covering myself with my hands. I can't tell you how embarrassed I am, sitting here typing this to you.
I was hoping that the head massage he promised earlier would de-stress me, but he didn't end up doing it. I was uncomfortable, therefore, making him uncomfortable. I'm too nice. I paid 200,000 for a massage that I wasn't comfortable with so that this guy is closer to paying his rent this month.
Given where he lives, I have no doubt that he is telling me the truth, and that ripping off tourists is the only way he can think of right now for survival.

He has good Australian friends who have probably drummed it into him that AUD$30 is nothing to us.

It's not his fault, but I don't want to be around him anymore.
God, I see "victim' all over this post. Perhaps I am a bit weak. :(
We had organised to play cards after the massage, as well as drinks, and the possibility of tours, language and cooking lessons, but I just want to be alone now. I am shaking, but for why?

7th June - Monday - Denpasar

2004-06-07T23:33:00.001+10:00

Woke up around 6am... knew Ama would sleep in as he was watching a movie after I went to bed, so I tried to sleep longer. Got up around 7:30am and got ready to go to the market.

Ama said he'd join me in the city (kota) later.
Took a taksi to the laundry, dropped off my clothes, then to the Denpasar market.

Ama sent me an SMS warning me not to let any guides show me around as they will pretend to be the owners of the shops and set the price, I SMS'd him back with "No Worries", but it ended up being a lot harder to lose them than I expected. Had to do some sneaky manoeuvres to shake them off, as my being polite doesn't seem to work in Denpasar :)

Bought a couple of long, black Masks for 20,000ea, no bartering... I thought that was a bloody awesome price, but later I saw that that's the going rate... amazing since they are so cool. If I buy anymore, I know to pay less now... I'm such a tourist sucker hey ;)

Saw some incense holders that would probably sell well in my sisters shop, bought a sample for 7000, wrote down the wholesale prices, grabbed a biz card, etc.. but then she told me I could buy them cheaper in Ubud.

Had lunch at an expensive place (25,000 Nasi Goreng)

Walked the main streets of Denpasar. I um... didn't like it.
Everyone watching me all the time, not so many smiley faces in this town, not so many westerners either, only saw about 6 for the whole day and I'm not sure if they were the same ones over and over or not :)

Bought some perfume for 40,000 for 3, Poison, Tommy Girl, and Red Door. They are imitation but they look and smell real. Even the packaging is identical to the original.

I found myself cornered by street-sellers.. about 8 of them, all shoving different things at me, it's like I'm the queen or something. I must be so rich here... funny to imagine that being that I'm jobless at the moment. I managed to lose a lot of them by being a bit more stubborn than usual, they were really getting to me actually, as I said no about 20+ times, which is just getting ridiculous. I got it down to just 2 following me around, then 1.. then after talking to the final one (Ali Babah was his name... hehe... no shit.) for a little while, he realised that I really didn't want his damn watches. Especially after he tried to give me a couple for free "cos he likes me", but I didn't accept them.

I hope Ubud is not like this - I go there tomorrow.

I bought a hair straightener from a normal electrical sales store for about AUD$11, and some anti-frizz lotion from a hairdresser. I'm sick of my hair looking like a dried out wig of hay. The water here, or maybe the weather, or I don't know, but something isn't agreeing with my skin and hair, and I feel really ugly, so I'm hoping this will solve my problem a bit ;)

It won't work in Australia, so when I've finished with it, I can give it to a poor hairdresser in Kuta or keep it for next time.

There will definitely be a next time. :)

I checked the DVD's that I bought, they are all perfect, except "The Day After Tomorrow"... bugger, was really looking forward to watching it. I will take it back to the place that I bought it when I go to Kuta and see if they can swap it for a better one, he charged me more for it and didn't tell me it was crap quality. There are 2 grades that you can buy, and now I know what to look for, those that have the number "9" are good quality, if it doesn't have "9", then it's probably crap.

(I later found that some of the crap ones have forged the 9 on them too, so you can't even trust that, but it's still a better guide than none at all... )

I just finished watching Phone Booth on DVD.
I think today will be the last chance to enjoy technology for a few weeks. I hope I am able to get online later and update this diary one more time before Ubud.

I pick up my custom-designed bracelet tomorrow - I hope it ends up being nice after all the trouble trying to describe to them what I wanted, it was more than I expected, but still cheaper than you can get in Australia.

Next time I come to Bali, I will have a look at what I want them to make, take lots of photos, and bring them with me.

If you don't have to change anything, it's very very cheap. For a Silver bracelet with 3 x Moonstones = AUD$38-$50 - must take a known local who won't take commission to get the lowest prices, else they will give a good commission to the "guide".

The weather here is so sticky and hot. More so than in Kuta. Ama said it's about 30 degrees but it feels hotter, but then again, my clothing still isn't very appropriate. I thought I would be able to buy clothes from Bali, but can't with all the "eyes on you" all the time passing you new things to look at as soon as you show a bit of interest in one thing. Buy, Buy, Buy! Buy MORE, Buy MORE, Buy MORE!! Buy ONE more! Buy ONE more! ONE more!.. arrrrrgh.... hehe

In Denpasar, I think I would get irritated with the pushy salespeople as they are less considerate of you here, and at least they are friendly in Kuta (even if they are faking it - it's nice to get fake friendly than no friendly at all!)

Ama picked me up in taksi with 2 of his little friends from the village (young school-aged children). They chose KFC for lunch.

KFC is almost the same as in Australia, except the menu is slightly modified (it's cheaper too, but still very expensive for Bali, I could've fed the whole 4 of us for the same cost of what I had).

Fried chicken and Crispy strips and Chips = virtually the same
Boiled Rice is available instead of bread rolls, and it seems that most people order Rice with anything from KFC.
Spaghetti Bolognaise is available
Perkedel = potato mash with spices (side dish)
There is no corn.
They have twisters and sundae's, but they don't look the same.

The spices taste the same on the chicken, but the texture is not as fatty, the chickens don't look like they have been fed the same amount of steroids as those in Australia either ;)

I had 2 x crispy strips (about 7,000R) and a Perkedel to try (very yum, tastes like um.. fried KFC mash potato with herbs)

There are visitors here now so Ama entertaining while I sit here, we might finish the movie Monster later.

Cya in a week or so probably!

Sunday 6th June - Denpasar

2004-06-06T19:33:00.000+10:00

Ama slept longer than me so I got up and started watching a DVD (2 weeks notice). He got up about 1/2 way through and made me a fresh brew of coffee and some fruit for breaky.

We took a taxi to Marcus's house then we all took a cab to have a Javanese lunch in Denpasar City. That was the first time I was sure I would get sick. I was scared to eat the food, but I ate it anyway. The restaurant is open with plastic chairs and tables (about 5). The food was already cooked/prepared and sitting behind glass for us to point at what we wanted. Some of it was scary looking - dried Piranha (Sp?) fish with teeth still attached? God knows what it was, the others didn't seem to notice.

I chose a selection of vegetarian dishes and rice. It was cold/luke warm. Prob fall of millions of bacteria just waiting to attack the stomach of an aussie gal like me. The food was nice though, pretty yummo, would've been even more delicious if I wasn't freakin` out :)

Joni called Ama and said that he would meet us at Marcus's, so we headed back in the same cab who was waiting for us while we ate.

Ama & I got into Joni's car - very nice car - and headed to go to a town that was supposedly further than Ubud. On the way, we stopped at a silver makers, and I ordered some custom-made jewellery that I designed on the spot - I will go and pick it up in about 2 days.

We didn't make it as far as our destination - we got as far as the largest Art/Craft Market in Bali, and all of a sudden, people on the streets were pointing to the back of our car, and trying to get our attention.

Ama jumped out cos he thought the car was going to blow up, and I thought the car must've been on fire. Everyone looked panicked, so I also jumped out.

Turns out that Joni had been driving the whole way with the handbrake on, so wheels were smokin! The people were very scared but came out to try and help, not that they could do anything. Joni parked, and the Police told him to stay there until it had cooled down, so me and a shaken Ama went to look at the markets. I bought 2 x Bali shirts for 15,000 Rupiah each (about $2.50?).

Ama was too scared to continue our journey, so we headed home.

We got back to Ama's, I met his cleaning lady. She comes in every 2nd day and gets paid 50,000 R per month. Ama & I then sat down and chatted about life for a few hours.

I'm sitting in the lounge listening to one of the Jack Johnson Cd's that I bought from Kuta, while Ama surfs the net.

It's stinking hot, might go and have a cold shower...

Ama had some visitors come over, so I dried my hair while they chatted. Then Joni arrived, the guests left, and Ama, Joni, & I took a taksi to Sanur for dinner.

We went to a restaurant on the beach called Bonsai Cafe. It was really pretty, all the tables are outside, on the sand, with lit candles. The meal was yum, I had vegetarian noodles, Ama had salad, and Joni had chicken cashews. I took a pic of them eating :) Finally Ama allowed me to pay (100,000R) for dinner. We then went home and watched a DVD.

Saturday - 5th June - Denpasar

2004-06-05T22:29:00.001+10:00

Slept in pretty late, I think I got up around 10am or so. Had fruit for breakfast (melon, grapes, and apple).

We then went to Denpasar market. We were only there for 1 hr which confused me a bit as I thought we were going for the whole day, but at least now I know what to expect if I decide to go later on my own or with someone else. Ama's advice was to not point at anything, and to only pay 30% of what they ask (not at the bit we went to which was more for wholesalers).

I bought 4 Lombok masks (Balinese masks are scary, Lombok masks are decorative and nice). I also bought some incence gift packs. All up, it costed around AUD $25.

We went across to the smelly food market. They are in need of some basic hygiene education and some refrigeration or ice. It was putrid.
Ama bought some shrimp - he can eat 'that' by himself :)

About 12:30 we went to Marcus's place. He had his other daughter there who was 3 - although looks about 5 to me. She is sooooo adorable - a very beautiful and sweet child.

Ama and Ika cooked our lunch - Chilli Con Carne. And Joni went and got some boiled rice to eat with it.
We sat down and ate while Marcus and Ama swapped cheeky insults to each other - they are very funny and bounce off each other.

After lunch, we played Uno in the heat for hours. They are a bunch of sneaky cheaters :)

Then I got on the back of Joni's bike and we rode back to Ama's. Ama walked.

Friday - 4th June

2004-06-05T22:29:00.000+10:00

4th June (Friday)

Check out day @ Flora Beach Hotel. The check-out time is noon.

Went shopping, got talked into buying a tshirt that I didn't want, then some sunglasses at the next shop by 3 convincing young Balinese men.

I had my photo taken with one of them, yes, the one kissing my cheek and freaking me out.

ew ew ew what a crap photo!

I only had small notes left by the time they were through with me, but they took the rest of it for a large bottle of "Beautiful". I'm sure it's fake, but it looks and smells real.

I finally made it to the "Real" shopping centre, but the ATM only spat out 100,000 Rupiah notes - although only worth about $15-$17 Australian, it's just too much for anyone to change. Not even the large shopping centre has change for that first thing in the morning. To get some perspective - I might as well of had AUD $1000 notes back in Australia at a milkbar. :)

Even the money changers didn't have change, so before I could go shopping, I had to hunt down a money changer that could change the notes into something more useful.

Found one, but could only change to 50,000 R, but is OK for the big shopping centre.

Hmm.. "IS OK" ???

Now I'm even starting to TYPE/WRITE in broken English ;)

I bought some more shampoo, conditioner, bandaids, moisturiser, and headed back to the hotel.

I dropped in to see Iketut and say Goodbye and get our photo taken.

I bought some DVD's from Ronnie (Rocky) from across the road from Flora. Such a great guy. Doesn't hassle at all. All the DVD's are 9 quality (there is 5 and 9.. 9 is the better one), but he will still play them all for you if you want to test them.

"Made" (guy who walked me to Papa's), "just happened" to be riding past the hotel and so I said Goodbye to him too and told him that I hadn't yet had the chance to check my email for the past few days so, no, I didn't get his email. I don't think I mentioned this earlier, but the night before the cooking class, he called the hotel about midnight and got put through to me. I was already asleep, but "is ok" i guess. Persistent they are :)

I guess a bit neglected too, starved for some friendly company and a chance to 1) practice their English, or 2) the money thing.. they think we are millionaires, although they all know that I am not as rich as the other tourists and have accepted that I'm watchful of the things I spend money on.

I forgot to take a photo of Ronnie and Made - I'll try to remember if I go back to Kuta before I leave.

Made a deal with Flora to get a special price to stay there if I come back. Checked out at noon.

The Aussie lady had final advice for me to "be careful". I'm starting to get aggravated on the inside with Aussie advice. Everyone thinks I'm so naive, just because I want to have an open cultural experience. I've become disgusted with the way some Aussies behave towards Balinese. They are lovely people and we are walking money to them, there is no reason to swear at them or to talk down to them. Thankfully not all Australians are treating them that way, but I've decided to dis-associate myself with those that do, and balance up the "bad karma" by being strictly nice to all of them.

Those that grab you are usually the women who want to "plait your hair or paint your nails". They are the only ones whom you will need to be firmer with, and Nick gave me a tip that works... he says "respect", "a bit of respect" while putting his hand over his heart... Hard to describe, but it works to most.

Hope I never become like those Aussies who have been there too many times and just don't care anymore. Arrogant, selfish, Up Themselves.

I needed to get a Taxi to Denpasar. No taxi (Taksi) could get it right. The hotel is currently hard to reach due to the drainage "renovations". Finally we got one that could work out how to get there, but he didn't know his way around Denpasar. On well :)

We eventually found Ama's house, it costed around 40,000 - should've cost around 25,000, but 40,000 is only about AUD $6 - so who's complaining! Bargain at 4 times the price as it was about a 40min + trip.

Denpasar is even busier than Kuta which is hard to imagine. Although, I felt very, very "white" in Denpasar. Most of the Westerner's hang out around surf/beach places - Kuta and nearby - so I'd better get used to the stares. I just smile @ everyone like a dickhead :)

I met Joni (Yonny) @ Ama's - very, very nice Balinese man which a contagious laugh!

We had a drink (water) and a chat, then Joni went home or to an appointment, and Ama & I headed to the supermarket via taksi.

On the way, we picked up Marcus, an American who has lived in Indonesia for years. He has a strong American accent and is really tall and well built. He lives with his adopted daughter (who I think is Javanese). Both Marcus and Ika are very lovely people and we are probably going to their place tomorrow for some Chilli Con Carne.

Marcus, Ama, and I went to a tailors so that Marcus could get some adjustments on his custom-made clothes, then to the supermarket. The supermarket was awesome. Like, um, a cheap supermarket - hmm.. imagine Jewel with hot food. All the vegies looked different and more than 90% of the food, I had no friggin` idea what they were. :) The lolly aisle is the only one I understood - I bought a kitkat for around AUD 30 cents.

We bought heaps of food - meat, veg, catfood, etc. It costed 100,000 all up ($15-17) - enough to feed about 6.

It's after 2:30am so I'm really tired and not describing anything very well, I'm also trying to rush as we are heading to the Denpasar market tomorrow morning.

I will describe this beautiful house tomorrow or sometime when I get time. We watched Roadtrip on DVD. I had a nap while Ama cooked up a delicious feast that could feed me for the rest of this week. Joni and his nephew (gday) came around and we chatted for hours and hours. Great Day!

Thurs - 3rd June - 4th Day

2004-06-04T22:29:00.000+10:00

Had an Indonesian breakfast this morning - Nasi Goreng and Fruit Juice. It was nice, but the best part was the company. The "waiter" I guess you could call him, sat down at my table for a chat. His nickname is "Junior", and his real name is Wayan, which means first born.

At 8am, my driver picked me up to go to the cooking course. The course costs 240,500 (about AUD $37) We drove to a rural village called Gulingan. It's a wealthy area to live, but not considered as wealthy as other areas.

After about 40 minutes of driving, we walked along rice terraces to get to the house. They served soft drink (coke, fanta, etc) when we got there, although I just drank my water. Then they served sweet-potato chips, and 2 other delicious things that I can't remember the names of. One of them was made from a root of a plant, and the other tasted like golden syrup dumplings except crispier. The centre of the treat was made from palm sugar. Mmmmm.

Then we went for a walk around the village while we were waiting for the traditional Balinese coffee to be served.

The walk was really the highlight for me. It's fascinating to see how they live. Every place had their own temple. There was water from a river along the sides of the roads. Things were very quiet and relaxed here.

The company on this tour was the best. Tony came (Melbourne guy who piked out on the cruise), as well as a family from Adelaide (mum, dad, and 2 young primary-school aged children).
The kids were really quiet and well behaved, I think because they were worn out from the previous day @ the water fun park.

After the walk, we drank the thick, grainy, goup that is the traditional Balinese coffee.

It only starts to taste good with about... hmm.. 6 (SIX!) heaped sugars :)

Then it was time to cook.
We basically just watched them prepare the food, then each of us had a small turn @ mimicking while the rest of us either criticized or praised our attempts ;). Then we got to eat it - YUMMO.

Yellow Rice, Chicken Satay, Beans - I can't remember what else. Small spiders kept crawling all over me :(

Being out there was so very different than Kuta. It was hot and green and so relaxing. The company is really what made it great though, bad company could've ruined the whole event.

We got back into Kuta, then I went shopping @ a "fixed price" "air-conditioned" shopping centre. Except for the prices and items available, it is much the same as, shopping at somewhere like Myers, Central Square (Ballarat).

I bought some crap because it was cheap, and as I walked back to the hotel, I spotted another lady from the hotel at a bar and she asked me over to join her.
I had a tequila sunrise. Ahh, the life of holidays...I'm still trying to get used to the fact that I can drink "cos I don't have to drive". That mentality hasn't really hit me yet.

A couple of friendly guys asked us over to their table but she was a snob and said no. I guess she isn't very interested in meeting new people since she spends most of her time by the hotel pool reading books.

I went back to the hotel and here I sit.

I have just about finished packing all my stuff up to go to Denpasar tomorrow and shortly I will have a shower and get ready for my last night on the town.
I'm supposed to meet up with Nick tonight at Tubes for drinks, but I might have dinner there as well if I don't find anything tempting along the way.

--

Went to Tubes, had a drink and some dinner with Nick.
Nasi Goreng again!! But only because it was the only Indonesian dish on the menu.

We then went to a place and I bought some Jack Johnson CD's and a few new-release DVDs.

Then we went to Paddies (Paddy's?). Paddies is where all the Western types go now since Sari was bombed. Paddies has one fantastic atmosphere, I really loved it there (although it was probably the company again that made it so great). This is my last night in Kuta.

Nick & I drank @ the bar for a couple of hours. Nick was drinking some lethal shit. After a few, I decided to just drink water - it tastes better and well, I wasn't sure of his jokes about me staying with him, etc. We are attracted to each other, but I have no intention of going there, I just want to meet new people and party, I'm not here for romance.

Byron turned up, so I grabbed his mobile number and might catch up with him one night before he leaves (18th June).

I decided to walk back to my hotel about 11:30pm as it's about a 15min walk. On the way, I stopped and chatted to Ivan, who is a really friendly driver.

Bedtime now.

2nd June - 3rd Day

2004-06-02T21:29:00.000+10:00

Met a fellow Aussie traveller at the hotel breakfast named Michael. He's from Adelaide and was there with his buddy Gary. They are both staying at Flora Beach with me. He took me to the big shopping centre with air conditioning & fixed prices. I will go back there tomorrow and buy some stuff, but couldn't really shop with him... just looking, browsing things pretty quickly.

Iketut SMS'd me about 8 times before 10am. I sent him an SMS saying that I didn't want to go on his bike to Nusa Dua, which was what he was trying to get me to do (I was expecting to go to the local markets with him but he has a selective memory).

I then walked to Papa's Cafe which is along the beach. It took nearly an hour to get there. On the way, I met a guy named Made (may-dee).
He apparently was speaking to me the other day, but I don't remember him. He walked with me there after asking if it was ok.. I said yes, and joked that as long as he doesn't ask for money (which he didn't).
I was to meet Ama (local from Denpasar) there and his friends, but only Ama turned up. While waiting for Ama, I asked Made if he would like a drink. When Ama showed, we both asked him (Made) to stay for lunch, both intending to pay for him. Ama ended up paying for all of us! We all had the same thing - Nasi Campur (cham-pour)- Boiled Rice, Veg (mm), Tempeh, Tofu, Chicken in Satay sauce, beef, shrimp - it was delicious.

Ama is a cool guy. He gets paid Australian wage from a job he found via the internet (he has a masters degree) and lives in Bali, so he's wealthy compared to most of the locals. I will stay with him in Denpasar in his village for a couple of days.

We took a cab back to Bemo corner and Made & I walked back to my hotel. I tried to offer some money to Ama but he wouldn't hear of it - he said "Give me 1 million US dollars or nothing". He's funny and cheeky and more "himself" than others here. I gave Made my email address. He was eager to catch up again, but I don't see how it will be possible as I'm pretty booked up for the rest of my time in Kuta now and no idea whether I'll be coming back to Kuta before I go back to Australia.

I'm so tired.
I tried to have a rest when I got back to the hotel, but then I realised I didn't have long to go before the cruise, so I got ready for that instead. It took about 25 minutes to drive to the dock. I'm sitting at the dock now waiting for boarding. Tony piked out on the cruise, so I am sitting here alone for the first time since I got here. It should be a good chance to relax for a couple of hours. There doesn't seem to be any Aussies yet. Just Japanese? There are white faces, but not sure of ethnic group.

The cruise was definitely worth the money. The dinner was nice, it was a buffet of all sorts of food. I had boiled rice, beans, potatoes, chicken curry, chinese beef, roasted pepper salad, olives, etc. There wasn't any Indonesian dishes available. (?!)

They had an Indonesian singer to start the night off while we ate (singing Dido, Norah Jones, and Japanese songs). She got people up and dancing, and was very "personable".

It was supposed to be a "Sunset" dinner cruise, but we didn't see the sunset. One minute it was light, the next it was dark.

I spoke with Japanese passengers all night. None could speak English. They were all very friendly. I took their photos with their camera, and they took mine with each other.

I also spoke with a group of Aussies, although mainly one guy. I didn't get any of their names. He was there with his wife and 7-9month old baby, and a few friends.

After the Indonesian singer had finished, they had a live Cabaret show who were fantastic. 7 dancers wearing very colourful (reggae colours) clothing, bopping away to cabaret songs and Madonna. There was one who was an absolute hoot, she was filled with confidence and was always picking on one poor shy Japanese guy, she was hilarious and got everyone in tears with her lip syncing and choice of songs and actions.
After they had finished, I went to the top deck to a Trio band of electric guitar player/singers. Imagine a Spanish act of guitar players like Guantameleo, those that would normally serenade couples, and you'll picture the right type of band.

The drive back to the hotel was daunting. The driver can't speak English - he was a bloody maniac on the road with zero consideration to the safety of others on the road. I left claw marks in his seats.

Tomorrow morning I have to leave at 8am for my cooking class, so I'm having an early one tonight.

It's approx 9:30.

My Second Day in Bali

2004-06-01T13:03:00.000+10:00

That headache attacked me all night and was finally eased a little bit a couple of hours ago after throwing up. Or perhaps it was the zapper that helped, in any case, I can actually move my eyes around without feeling the pain, so I can head out.;

Today's mission is to find some normal shops where I don't have to bargain, organise the sunset dinner cruise for tonight/tomorrow night, hook up with some fellow travellers, cash some travellers cheques, and maybe if I get time, have a back/shoulder or scalp massage :)

This place is spookier alone than I imagined it would be. Everyone is looking at me, I just smile and say Hi, Hey or G'day to them all. I haven't smiled this much in years.

I thought Kuta would have Australians everywhere. I've seen about 5 westerners so far.. they must be hiding at the beach.

The tourguide/shop guy from yesterday was really friendly, I can't believe I forgot to thank him for walking me to the phone shop. Perhaps it was the headache/ears thing. I hope that I get a lot better later before the dinner cruise.

My new phone number over here is +62 0817 470 0524 if anyone wants to send me a SMS message (the normal phone won't work - my phone just dies).
Send me an email with your mobile number and I'll msg you first to make it easier to reply with the country codes, etc.. travelches@yahoo.com

I had a continental breakfast this morning, which is just a fruit salad and toast. It was nice enough, tomorrow I'll try something fancy, but today I thought my stomach might appreciate something simple since it's been hurling up all night.

---

Bought some thongs and sandals for approx Aud $25. The "people in the shops" are so nice, hard to find a way to bargain were both win, maybe if I wasn't so nice.. oh well.

Went for a walk, updated my site on the internet, met up with the hotel guide this morning and arranged the dinner cruise and cooking course.

Met up with that shop guy Iketut by accident and he decided to walk with me. Don't know whether he expects $ or not or whether he is offering "more than friends".. etc.. a bit strange that one, though seems nice enough.

Tried Nasi Goreng - a special version- Fried Rice with fried egg, and chicken satay. It's SOO yum.

I had a ride on the back of a motorbike with Iketut.

Thank god for the clouds. All the Balinese Hotel staff keep apologizing for the weather, but I think it's perfect.
It feels about 28 degrees but I don't know how accurate I am. It's nicer weather than Melbourne.

I had a full body massage (50,000Rupiah - apx $7.60). It was probably the best massage I've ever had, they have a unique way. Hmm, and a full body massage is really that... back and front! Wouldn't of wanted to have more of a complex about your body than I do!

I also had a shampoo/conditioner (16,500R). Their hairdryer is broken so I left with wet hair. My skin around my face, neck, and chin is now itchy. The water was icy.

The guide asked me to take him to dinner. I said No. He asked to come on the cruise. I said no. I might SMS him tomorrow to take me to the "local" market for the experience.
He was also going to take me to where the bombings took place but we got distracted cos of my hunger.

I wish I knew how to speak Balinese or Bahasa Indonesia, although a lot of them speak English, sometimes it takes 4-5 repeats to get the right meaning.

I'm sitting in my front porch in front of the pool, listening to .. I think... some German girls who are having a swim.

Itch... Itch.. Itch.

Ok.. time for a walk.

--

Went for a walk up Legian St for a few hours. There are a lot of people who approach you, some girls even grabbed me and refused to let go for about 5 mins up the road! Thankfully they aren't usually that inconsiderate.

I met a guy named Nick. He is visiting from South Africa for 3 weeks. Usually works as an Air Traffic Controller in Dubai, UE.

I am meeting up with him at Tubes tonight for a couple of drinks after I have something to eat.

--

I wanted to find some good Indonesian food, thought my best bet is to walk up Legian St since Tubes is also off that, and I didn't want to end up lost.
Walkn, walkn.. run into a guy who suggests a new place that he likes for Nasi Goreng. I get some half-assed directions, then run into that shop guide Iketut again!! He asks where I'm going and asks if he can come, which I agree to.
He said that he had to go and park his bike, so I told him to meet me at the restaurant.
I found it, with help from the first guy, it was sort of like a kitchen with a wall missing that faces the street! A nice family kitchen with enough chairs for 5 of us.
He ordered 2 x Nasi Gorengs (1,400 Rupiah each.. VERY VERY VERY cheap!).
It was yum, but in my opinion the other one was better. The side-dish chilli nearly burnt a hole in my tongue :)
The smallest change I had was 20,000 R, so the guy (Jupri) paid and I will find him tomorrow and pay him back. We were talking while waiting for dinner (which took at least 20 mins to cook) with the owner, and a local Indonesian couple. We discussed the options of me working in Bali and the guy will put me in touch with someone he met with recently who could have some work. His name (the guy I was talking to) is Jupri, and he works as a Bali Tour Guide. He can speak Japanese too.

I then went to Tubes. Iketut still hadn't shown up, and I couldn't see Nick anywhere. So I sat at the bar and ordered an orange juice - it tasted like wizzfizz? hehe.

A guy next to me started talking to me. He was from Sydney and was on the last leg of his year-long trip. He was on day 5 of staying there a month and is there for the surf. He had been to the USA, France, and now Bali. He once owned a restaurant in the USA somewhere (California?). Anyway, he seemed friendly enough but he was a self-admitted loner. I probably could've ended up talking to him all night but while he was gone somewhere, I spotted Nick and went to sit down with him instead.

Nick cracks me up. He is definitely a people person. He got me on the Bali Ciders - they are really yum. Tastes like a flatter Apple Cider (or weak strongbow). Is 4.9% AV. I had 2 - the first was his shout, the 2nd mine. We really hit it off and will hook up again in a couple of nights at the same place. He doesn't have email or phone, so this was the only way to hook up. We are going to arrange a trip up to some place - Ulluwatu or Ullamaroo or something like that, apx 45mins away - a semi-isolated beach, but I will have to gain enough courage to ride on the back of a bike with him all the way, and also enough courage to walk around in bathers - EEKS!

I got an SMS from Iketut to say that he can't find me at the restaurant. Told him I was now at Tubes but that I wasn't staying much longer and that I would be heading back home.

About 20 mins later, I felt a couple of hands on my shoulders and thought it must be him, but to my surprise, it was Tony.

Tony and his 3 new surfer buddies joined us, and we shared a few of our Bali experiences and a few drinks. One was from France - Samuel (Sam - Yoo - ELL). One was from Australia, the other wasn't introduced.

50 First Dates started playing on the big screen (Troy was on first). I went to the loo - found one that would flush ;) - then went back to the table. I dunno, when I got back the atmosphere had changed, so I decided to stop drinking and head back to the hotel before it got too late.

I will meet up with Tony tomorrow night for the dinner cruise and Nick the night after as he was going on an all day/overnight surfing trip.

It is approx 11:30pm.

My First Day in Bali

2004-05-31T12:51:00.000+10:00

I don't feel too well... no, it's not Bali Belly; I haven't yet had the privilege of eating.

It's been a big day.. left for the airport at 4:30am with only 30 min sleep due to a bad asthma attack which I think was caused by something psychological.

On the flight, the headphones for the movies didn't work, so I tried sleeping or I spent my time chatting to the guy next to me (Byron) who was also travelling overseas for the first time by himself. My ears wouldn't pop, and they were so painful.

I arrived at Bali, got through the Visa process fairly easily, and then promptly got ripped off by the porters. :( I was pre-warned about them, and even had small change just in case, but I handled it badly and they ended up getting 50,000 Rupiah for taking me about 5 steps! Lesson learnt.

[Note: If you are going to Bali... Bring lots and lots and LOTS of Aussie $2 and $1 coins and you will have a bartering tool that will be useful EVERYWHERE you go. You can buy clothes, DVD's, or other jewellery with it, and more. Why? because they make jewellery from our gold (and silver) coins, and those locals that don't sell or make the Aussie-dollar jewellery, will still find a use for them - they get the makers to custom-make their jewellery for free "if they provide the coins".... if I had've known all this, I would've brought a large bag-full and used it at EVERY opportunity to barter with.. including those pesky porters at the airport!]

Went outside and found the man with my name on a sign, crammed into a van with 5 others and headed off through heavy traffic to drop us at 3 different hotels. Even though the traffic isn't half as bad as I expected from all the stories, I was amazed that we didn't kill at least 30 people on the way, they get sooo bloody close to riders and other cars and don't seem to worry about people on the roads either - however, somehow, there were no casualties. Hold your breathe and close your eyes!

I've organised with another guy from the shuttle, Tony, to go on the dinner cruise with me, and invited the other guy from the plane, that should be fun.

I arrive at the hotel - not as nice as it looked in the photos, but it's clean enough for the 5 days and I'm not unhappy. I have two beds, my own little bathroom with a western-style toilet/shower. I have a tiny fridge but the room is so cool from the air conditioning that I just have my water bottles sitting in the bathroom :)

I headed to an internet cafe first off to email Byron (guy from plane) and to let my family and friends know I had arrived ok.

Then I thought I would try and find a phone shop to pick up a Sim card, but the first shop that "caught" me, was a guy pestering me to look at his silverware which I'm not really interested in. He then pointed to his paintings and said 1dollar, only 1dollar. Got my attention as they were incredible. Although I didn't come to Bali for paintings, he took me out the back of the shop and laid them all out, he was very proud of his work (and so he should be, but it made it harder to say "no"), I chose 2 that I liked, and he gave me a price of 750,000 Rupiah ! (approx AUD$115). A bit more than $1 huh! - I cheekily brought up that fact, and he said that he was only joking about the dollar, that "they" only joke about the $1, and to name a price. I said that I didn't want to offend him with a price because I was expecting it to be $1. After a few words, I ended up offering $10 each. He put it up to $25 for the both, and we had our first sale by bargaining. So now I've spent $25 on something I didn't want in the first place. Another lesson learnt.

He seemed a nice guy after we got talking, and he decided to walk me around the town a bit to practice his English (although he spoke it very well). After assuring me it won't cost me anything for this tour, we headed into the main streets looking for a phone shop.

I bought a SIM card for 75,000 Rupiah (50,000 Rupiah credit). They set up the phone and left it in Indonesian - argh... later in the hotel, it took me ages to find the "English" setting but I found it :)

The guides name is Kapuk or Pakit or something like that.. I'm sure I'll see him again.
Anyway, this headache needs a rest, so does my ears which have refused to clear since the flight :(

I had to wear my jumper to sleep cos I couldn't figure out until the early hours of the morning how exactly to turn off the air conditioning, so that damn jumper which I thought would be a waste of valuable space, turned out to be useful afterall :)

Love Ches

Things I'm glad I took to Bali

2004-05-21T00:46:00.000+10:00

Things I'm glad I took to Bali
- toilet paper
- inner sleeping sheet
- digital camera
- bandaids
- own towell
- mosquito repellent
- mobile phone and charger
- power adaptor
- coat hangers
- sneakers
- evening/going-out clothes
- diary
- extra socks and underwear

Things I should've brought from home
- digital camera cable to upload pics
- laptop
- more bandaids (the ones you buy here are shit)
- comfy sandals
- mozzie lotion
- larger soap holder
- tampons!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- travel iron
- travel hairdryer

Things better off buying in Bali
- torch
- batteries
- face washers
- shampoo and conditioner
- toothpaste
- summer clothes
- books
- cds

Things I should've left at home
- moisturizer
- first aid kit
- extra sunscreen lotion
- torch
- books
- pants that I don't even wear at home so never wear here either

Things I bought in Bali
- power board
- hairdryer
- hair staightener
- hair products (its like frizz city here!!)
- walkman and speakers in 3rd week
- clothes
- larger Travel Bag

Accommodation - Kuta

2004-05-18T06:07:00.000+10:00

Kuta Accommodation

FLORA BEACH HOTEL Jalan Bakung Sari Kuta, Bali INDONESIA
Tel: (0361) 751 870 Fax: (0361) 754 227
Located right in the heart of Kuta - close to shopping & entertainment spots, 5 minutes from the beach & 10 minutes from the airport.
150,000Rupiah (AUD$24) per night is the cheapest I could bargain these guys down to. It's ok, not flashy, a fair price considering you get the nice quiet pool, very friendly & helpful staff, yummy breakfast, and air conditioning, but you can find cheaper. I stayed here the first 4 nights as it was part of my package deal with escapeholidays. Their breakfast was yum, you could have an Indonesian breakfast (Nasi Goreng aka Fried Rice) or an American breakfast, Fruit Salad, Egg & Toast.

AQUARIUS STAR HOTEL- 116 Legian St, Kuta
Tel: (0361) 756 573 Fax: (0361) 751 762 Email: aquariushotel@yahoo.com
Also in the heart of Kuta, right smack in the middle of lower-Legian st shopping. Only a 10min walk to the beach, only a 1-3 min walk to the Aussie nightlife (Paddies, Tubes, Bounty, Apache).
This was my fave place to stay, for value for money. 75,000 Rupiah ($12) per night for a single room, including a ceiling fan, breakfast and hot water. They also had a large pool with it's own bar. They advertise that they have a gym but I forgot to check it out. Their food was the best in Bali, and sooo cheap. Breakfast is included and is the yummiest and you can choose all or some of following: banana pancakes drizzled with honey, fruit salad, scrambled egg, orange juice, coffee/tea, porridge, and toast, and I came back to this place and begged to stay again after I had travelled to different areas of the island. You may wish to pre-book these guys before you go as I was devastated when they couldn't fit me in the 2nd time and I had to stay 2 nights in a different hotel. If you don't stay here, make sure you plan to eat here at least once.. their Nasi Goreng is to die for, as is their Gado Gado and banana pancakes.

BERLIAN INN - Poppies Lane, Kuta
Tel: (0361) 751 501
A couple minutes walk from the beach, this one was a nice place to stay, it was 90,000R ($14) a night for a single room (with 2 separate beds or 1 x double-bed), hot water, and a ceiling fan. Istayed here 2 nights and then found the Aquarius, so moved in there instead. No pool here - not that you need one with the beach being so close. Their breakfast was nice; eggs on toast.

FAT YOGI Poppies Lane, Kuta - Found this budget (USD $4 per night) one on the internet: http://www.indo.com/hotels/fat_yogi/50% off if you book your room on the internet.. I walked past this place but had already found my "home" in the Aquarius so didn't take the opportunity to check it out, but it seemed ok from the outside, it's very close to the beach and very close to shopping, so if location is what you're after, then this one may be your answer.

Here are some others in Kuta that are supposed to be budget, but I didn't try any of them:
Adhi Dharma Hotel, Hotel Barong, Dewi Sri Cottages, Camplung Mas Hotel, and Melasti Bungalows.

Accommodation - Ubud

2004-05-18T04:08:00.000+10:00

PRAMESTI BUNGALOWS - Monkey Forest Rd, Ubud
I will stay at this place again if I go back, and will recommend anyone else to stay there too. Single rooms start at 80,000R (but I stayed for 60,000R). Includes a couple of beds (1 double, 1 single), hot water, ceiling fan, a beautiful outdoor setting with a garden view. The rooms were fresh and airy as the windows were large and made of flyscreen with bamboo rather than glass. They would come and clean your room every day. Breakfast was average, but still nice to have a change. Choice of tomato omelette or egg & tomato jaffle. They served fresh tea/coffee in a thermos at 6:30am each morning to your outdoor setting, so as soon as you woke up, you could have a hot, fresh cuppa. Sorry, I don't think they owned a telephone, but the locals will know where it is - it's down a very long alley next-door to the Kenso Reflexology place, just down the road on the opposite side of the Putra Reggae bar.

KUBU SAREN - Monkey Forest Rd, Ubud
Tel: (0361) 975 704 Fax: (0361) 974 683
Located near the Monkey Forest, if you stay here, make sure you stay in the downstairs accommodation as their upstairs accommodation sucks (read my diary for more details). Rooms are 80,000R (AUD$13) including breakfast (yummy banana pancakes and fruit salad). Staff are friendly. Hot water and ceiling fan. All accommodation in Ubud is subject to bargaining as it's a lot quieter than it used to be and there are just sooooooo many cheap places to choose from. I stayed here for 60,000R (AUD$9) per night.

SWAN INN - Wisnu Lane (off Monkey-Forest Rd), Ubud
Tel: 62 361 977 492
Conveniently located near the Ubud Market. Quiet, peaceful, hot/cold shower. Very cheap, I think rooms with hot water/fan/breakfast start at 50,000R (AUD$8). I didn't stay here, but a guy named Blondy who works there, gave me the tour, and it looks pretty nice. It has a cute little outdoor setting where they serve your breakfast. I was already happy with my current accommodation so didn't switch.

Accommodation Notes/Other

2004-05-18T02:11:00.000+10:00

Cheapest Accommodation...
A Losmen = small hotel, usually family run, rarely more than 10 rooms and is aka "homestay" or "Inn" and a Wisma = smaller place, like a guesthouse (& Bungalow).. a bit more expensive than Losmen. Just about any budget-range place can be called a Losmen. Some rooms are as low as 20,000Rp ($3) in some places, but generally 25-35,000Rp ($6) with popular locations being about 50-80,000Rp ($8-$13).

Mid-range Hotels
Rooms = 90-225,000 Rp ($15-$35)
incl breakfast, fan, bathroom, shower, and toilet - no air conditioning

Check-in/Check-out Times in most cases is 12 noon.

Room Deposit
On check-in, guests will be required to establish credit for incidental charges. A refundable deposit or a major credit card imprint will be required.

Air Tickets & Flight Advice

2004-05-16T02:17:00.000+10:00

Flight Specials
Everywhere has specials for Twin Share, you can get an extremely good deal.
But for me? The cheapest I could find for a solo traveller at last minute, was from Escape Travel flying via Air Paradise. (Melbourne Airport to Denpasar Airport) 31st May - 27th June - AUD $890 including 4 nights in Kuta (Flora Beach Resort - budget!)

You can get them as low as $500 with 8 nights accommodation if you have twinshare and you're not fussy about when you go. These prices were even listed for June, which is a popular tourist month.

Found this site today (17 May 04) and it looks pretty awesome for finding cheap flights from Australia and NZ to just about anywhere - http://www.cheapflights.com.au

Air Travel Health
Dehydration is a real hazard when flying. It is vital that you consume plenty of water - avoid too much alcohol, tea & coffee as they will increase dehydration.
Deep vein thrombosis (DVT), also known as 'economy class syndrome' - been in news for causing death & injury - basically any form of travelling that forces you to remain seated for more than 4 hrs increases the risk of developing blood clots in the legs, according to some experts. It's essential to keep your circulation going while you're flying. Remove footgear, move your legs up and down regularly, take walks in the aisles. read more tips - sas guide to safe travel

Departure Tax
You must keep 100,000Rp for your departure tax (apx AUD$16) and don't lose the card they leave in your passport as you will need it when departing.

Airport Customs / Luggage
On the way back into Australia from Bali, the 2 main "worries" are:
- the weight of your luggage, and
- the contents of your luggage.
Air Paradise only has a 20kg limit, which meant that I was allowed to take 20kg (they secretly give you 30kg) and then you pay excess for the rest. They don't weigh your hand luggage, so put all your heavy items (if possible) in there. I got to the Bali Airport early, but I'm so thankful that I did, as my luggage weight turned out to be 80kgs!! I had already gone through and chucked out what I didn't need, so couldn't believe that it weighed that much. You can't just pay excess either... Australian occupational health & safety prevents the airport luggage guys from lifting anything over 50kgs, so I had to buy another bag, stick more things in my already-overpacked hand-luggage, and try and get my 80kg back down to 50kgs, which somehow I did.. and then I had to carry 2 x very heavy bags on board with me, as well as re-pack my luggage to hand in. The excess costed about AUD$100 too. I was so early that noone was waiting behind me while all this happened, but it all had to happen in front of them, at the counter so you could continually re-weigh the bags, so be EARLY and you can iron out problems without pissing people off :)

Also, don't buy dodgy items - ie: soveneirs with animal hair, items made out of animal (ie: tortoise shell, etc) as there is no chance that Australia will let you in with them. You can buy food, as long as it's still packaged, ie: i bought a heap of chilli sauces back that I bought from the Matahari Supermarkets. You still have to claim them at customs though.

Note: When you arrive back in Australia, the line is huge, it was more than 1.5 hours to get through, and I was one of the first 20 to leave the plane. If I didn't have anything to claim, I would've maybe made it out in about 40-60 minutes. There were hundreds of people behind me in the line, so they would've had to wait at least another hour to get through customs.

Bali Belly

2004-05-14T06:50:00.000+10:00

Don't drink the Tap Water in Bali, buy mineral or sealed bottled water or purify/boil. Eat at busy places that cook as you order. Dehydration is the major danger with any diarrhoea, so drinking lots of fluids such as water, weak black tea, or flat diluted softdrink. I've bought some anti-diarrhoea tablets in case I need to travel with it, and some Gastro tablets to replenish my fluids should I need it.

Bargaining & Shopping

2004-05-14T04:40:00.000+10:00

Be sure to bargain for EVERYTHING in Bali.
This applies to anything you buy and especially to personal services. Paying 1/3 of original asking price is quite normal if you bargain well.

Fixed Price:
Meals, Transport tickets, Matahari supermarket, Alcohol

Bargain:
Art, Craft, Clothing, Street transport (the guy's that say "Transport Miss!?")

Fixed, but Negotiable:
Accommodation (if there is a lot of competition, very easy to get price down at least 20,000Rp per night, if you are staying for several days, they will usually bring it down, especially in Kuta, Lovina, and Ubud.

Bargaining Rules...
1. Establish Starting Price
2. Ask Seller for their price
3. Ask if that is the "Best Price"
4. Offer a price just below what you are willing to pay
5. As a rule, your 1st price could be anything from 1/3 - 2/3s of the asking price

Examples of what you would pay after bargaining:
Western CDs = 50-000 - 75,000Rp (AUD $8-$12) (can get some bargains in Monkey Forest Rd, Ubud for 40,000Rp for "legit" CD's.
Western CDs (Copies) = 10,000Rp (AUD$1.60)
Watches = imitation Rolex - 35,000 Rp ($5.50)
Shirts & Pants = thin quality - 10,000Rp (AUD$1.60)
Shirts & Pants = good quality - 25,000Rp - 35,000Rp (AUD$4-$6)
Bags = 6,000Rp - 50,000Rp (depending on quality)
DVDs = imitation/copies - 9,000Rp - 15,000Rp (don't pay more than 15, buying in bulk gives you better discount. There is a wholesale place between poppies I&II if you don't mind buying without the hard covers (you still get the insert so you can put them in hard covers in Australia).. 10,000Rp tourist price, no bargaining req'd)
DVDs = as new = 40,000Rp - 75,000Rp (AUD$6.50-$12)
I got 4 x Indiana Jones (3 IJ and 1 x bonus material), the boxed set for 150,000 (AUD$24) without bargaining, although I then bought season 1 of the Soprano's for a friend for 150,000 and with all the other DVD's, I was able to take 50,000Rp off the final price.

Gold & Silver
Puspa Mega, my "local" friend took me here, this is where he would go to get his jewellery. I paid 175,000 (AUD$28) on a custom-made, custom-designed bracelet for my friend. If you get taken with a guide, make sure you let them know that YOU told the guide to come here, that HE didn't bring you, otherwise, they will price "his commission" in the jewellery. You will find this place on the road from Denpasar to Ubud. They don't speak English very well, might be good to take someone with you who can translate, and definitely take your own drawings or examples of what you want done if you are getting custom-designed one, it can be hard to describe when you both can't understand each other well, unless you can draw pretty good! :)
Celuk - Sukawati - Gianyar 80582
PO BOX 035, Bali, Indonesia
Phone: 062 631 297567 and 299689, Fax: 062361298060, Email: balimega@indo.net.id

Check out Site-Seeing sections for known bargain shopping places.

Fixed Price Items:

Matahari & Supernova Examples (supermarket shopping)
Tampons (Tampax - only known brand) 61,875 (AUD$10)
Enormous Good Quality Suitcase - 393,500Rp (AUD$63.50)
Energizer Batteries 28,250Rp (AUD$4.50)
VCD - 30,000Rp (AUD$4.80)
DVD - 39,000Rp (AUD$6.30)
Ponds Moisturizer 6,375Rp (AUD$1)
L'Oreal Shampoo 24,200Rp (AUD$3.90)
L'Oreal Conditioner 26,550Rp (AUD$4.30)
Small Cup of Sealed Water 325Rp (AUD 5c)
Oral B Fancy Toothbrush 15,200Rp (AUD$2.45)
Pantene Conditioner 10,275Rp (AUD$1.60)
VCD/MP3/CD Walkman 600,000Rp (AUD$96.80)

Circle K & Kencana Examples (Mini market)
Water - 1,500Rp (AUD 24c)
White Toblerone 50Gr - 7,000Rp (AUD$1.10)
Tiny Notepad - 750Rp (AUD 12c)
Ballpoint Pen - 1,200Rp (AUD 20c)
10 Coathangers - 5,900Rp (AUD 95c)
Incence x 50 pcs - 3,400Rp (AUD 55c)
A4 Notepad - 5,650Rp (AUD 90c)

Beaches

2004-05-14T02:50:00.000+10:00

The Beaches

South Bali: Kuta, popular beach resort near the airport, overdeveloped, noisy, hassly, has excellent facilities; Sanur, an up-market resort, with limited interest to the backpacker;

East Bali: Candidasa quieter & less developed than Kuta but without much beach, backpackers are increasingly staying at the nearby small coastal towns of Padangbai & Ahmed, which are not as developed, have beautiful white sand beaches and great snorkeling.

North Bali: Lovina, a black sand beach, popular with backpackers. The place to see dolphins.

source: http://www.itisnet.com/

Courses - Cooking

2004-05-12T06:11:00.000+10:00

Djani's Cooking Class, Lovina / 2 hours
Djani's Restaurant (ph 41708), 2 hr cooking course (in English), including shopping in the morning market and preparing of about 5 or 6 traditional recipes
Cost is 100,000 Rp per person, min 2 people

Balinese Cooking, Ubud / 2 hours
A selection of fascinating traditional Balinese dishes are demonstrated, with participants preparing enough food for their own lunch. The group are taught to eat native style, with the hand or socalled pakai tangan. A comprehensive set of recipes are given out with step-by-step instruction on reproducing these delicious spicy dishes in your own kitchen. Facility: The rate above is inclusive of materials, tools, instructor and mineral water
Price : USD$ 55.00 / person
http://www.kecak.com/course/baliothers_course.html

Casa Luna Cooking School, Ubud / Half Day
Australian Janet De Neefe holds regular half day classes at the boutique Honeymoon Guesthouse on Mon, Tues, and Wed every week. Early morning visit to local market to be involved in the purchase of ingredients, then learn to prepare a range of Sambals, rice dishes, and desserts.
Price : AUD$ 38 / person
Source: Bali on Any Budget mag April 2003 - published by Garuda Indonesia

Bumbu Bali Cooking Classes, Tanjung Benoa / Half or Full Day
Heinz van Holzen, proprietor of Bumbu Bali restaurant, specialises in authentic Balinese cuisine. Every weekday you can participate in half or full day lessons starting with a visit to the local market to purchase ingredients.
Price : AUD$ 105 / person (Half Day)
Price : AUD$ 135 / person (Full Day)
Source: Bali on Any Budget mag April 2003 - published by Garuda Indonesia

Traditional Balinese Cooking Lesson, Gulingan village
I did this one, it was one of the best days I had in Bali (see my diary for more), but you didn't learn much cooking, you more "watched" and only participated a little bit, and didn't even get the recipies in the end. But it was a great day. My travel guide picked me up from my hotel in Kuta.
Price : AUD$40 /person (Half Day)
Book through Tour East Travel or you may be able to contact June directly, who was my guide the day that I went. His Mobile +62 8174786945 and his Email putu1974@yahoo.com

Courses - Dance

2004-05-12T04:12:00.000+10:00

Panyembrama Dance / 2 hour(s)

This lecture provides basic information concerning the traditional dance within the ritual context. Two of the most famous dancers in Bali will demonstrate the particular movements and the attending steps. Afterwards, the participants will be given the opportunity to learn and practice the dance by themselves. Formerly, the dance was patronized by local rajas and held in e puri, residence of the royal family of the village. Dancers were recruited from the aptest and prettiest children. Your teachers are young Balinese women who learned to dance the Legong since child hood. They will teach you the art of the Legong dance.Conditions:
The above rate is net price and non-commissionable
Advance booking is required.
Facility: The rate above is inclusive of materials, tools, instructor and mineral water
Region: Ubud
Price : USD$ 25.00 / person
http://www.kecak.com/course/index.php3

Courses - Other

2004-05-12T02:13:00.000+10:00

Balinese Painting - Lecture / 2 hour(s)

In this lecture, the group walks through the Museum (Bale Daja and Bale Dauh) to see the unique collection of Agung Rai. Their guide will give in the information about the history of painting in Bali, the paintings on exhibition and the differing styles, as well as an overview of contemporary Indonesian artists.Conditions:
The above course designed at least 2 (two hours)
The above rate is net price and non-commissionable.
Advance booking is required.
The rate above is inclusive of materials, tools, instructor and mineral water
Facility: The rate above is inclusive of materials, tools, instructor and mineral water.
Region: Ubud
Price : USD$ 35.00 /person
http://www.kecak.com/course/index.php3

Courses learning about Mask Making are available.

Cruises

2004-05-10T20:17:00.000+10:00

Bali Hai Cruises
http://www.balihaicruises.com/
There are six daily cruises to choose from which cruise from Bali to Lembongan Island.
1. Lembongan Island Reef Cruise (9am-4pm) US$85 (Apx AUD$124)
2. Beach Club Cruise (9am-4pm)US$75 (Apx AUD$110)
3. Sunset Dinner Cruise (6pm-9pm) US$40 (Apx AUD$60)
4. Aristocat (9am-6pm) US$85 (Apx AUD$124)
5. Ocean Rafting 3 Island Cruise (10:30 - 5:30) US$69 (Apx AUD$100)
6. Dolphin Cruise(7:30am-9:30am) US$49 (Apx AUD$70)

I went on the Sunset Dinner Cruise. Didn't get to see the sunset. Read my diary for more info on what it entails. I would go again, but would take someone I know with me next time :)

Customs - Toilet - Tips - Temples

2004-05-08T04:28:00.000+10:00

Toilet: Squat toilets are normal and toilet paper is not common in non-tourist areas. Locals wash with their left hand. Left hand considered dirty for reason above. Western-style toilets are common in Kuta, Ubud, and Denpasar, however you may have to deal with a squat toilet if you visit a local.
Always use your right hand to give/receive anything from anyone.

Tipping: Not usual except for porters and at high class hotels & restaurants. Service tax is often added to bill. Waiting staff are poorly paid, tips of 2,000-3,000 Rp are acceptable for good service.

Wages: The average per capita annual income for Indonesians is US$900. An Ubud waitress makes less than 1 million rupes per month (600,000 to 800,000) (I would love to get a hold of more examples of what Bali people get for wages if anyone out there has accurate info?)

At Temple: Everyone should wear a sash when entering a temple. A sarong is also necessary if legs are not covered. Sash/sarong rental is common at temples but you might as well buy a set. Women who are menstruating & people with open wounds shouldn't enter temples.

During ceremonies: visitors should show respect, be discreet with cameras & videos.
source: http://www.itisnet.com/

Electricity: The electrical current in Bali is 220volts AC. The local two-pin plug is different from many countries - you will need to purchase an adaptor. I bought one for AUD$10 online before I left, but there are electrical shops in Kuta and Denpasar, as well as the back streets of Ubud, that you can purchase them from.

Balinese Names: are same for both sexes, and determined by birth order.
1st Child = Wayan (or sometimes Putu or Gede)
2nd Child = Made (or Kadek or Nengah)
3rd Child = Nyoman (or Komang)
4th Child = Ketut
5th, 6th, 7th, 8th Children = Re-Use Same Names

Clothes: Cover knees, shoulders, armpits

Laundry: Cheap compared to home, no matter where you go, and very easy to find. Usually a 24 hr service, but can do quicker if you get their early and if you really need it quicker.

Kuta - 120 Legian St (Sandat Laundry Service)
Socks 600Rp (10c)
Tshirt 1,000Rp (16c)
Long Shirt 1,200Rp (20c)
Long Pants 1,400Rp (23c)
Underwear 500Rp (8c)
Large Towel 2,500Rp (40c)

Kuta - Jl. Bakung Sari Gg. Widuri No.2 (JAYA Laundry Service)
These guys are at the bottom of Legian, Opposite Flora Beach Hotel
**a bit expensive, must be tourist price!**
Tshirt 2,000Rp (32c)
Trousers 3,500Rp (56c)
Underwear 1,500Rp (24c)
Socks 1,000Rp (16c)

Denpasar - 69 Seroja St (Rafika Laundry & Dry Cleaning Service)
Socks 500Rp (8c)
Long Pants 1,500Rp (24c)
Short-Sleeved Shirt 500Rp (8c)

Ubud - 56 Hanoman St (De De Laundry Service)
**a bit expensive, must be tourist price!**
Underwear 1,500Rp (24c)
Trousers 3,200Rp (52c)
Socks 1,400Rp (23c)

Currency & Money Stuff

2004-05-08T02:17:00.000+10:00

ATM is most common way for Australians to access their money.
Watch for bank fees. ANZ were charging me $8 per transaction.
Some ATM's, you can't get more than 400,000Rp (AUD$65)
Bank BNI in Kuta = 600,000Rp max.
Bank BCA in Ubud = 400,000Rp max.
Bank Lippo in Legian St, Kuta (near McDonalds) = 1,000,000.00Rp Max (AUD$160) and you won't find better than that - it also gives out 50,000Rp notes which is perfect.
Bank Lippo in Popies 1 (at the "K" mini-market) = 1,000,000.00Rp Max (AUD$160) and also gives out 50,000Rp notes.

Look out for the notes the ATM give-out, it will either say 100,000Rp or 50,000Rp - only use the ATM's with 50,000Rp else you will find it very difficult to get change. I found that out the hard way, but managed ok since I then found an exchanger who was willing to change them to 50,000Rp notes.

Travellers Cheques - bring in $100-$500 or equiv. and use as backup, or when you see an excellent rate of exchange.

Cash - have a good stock of 100Rp, 500Rp, 1,000 Rp, 5,000 Rp, 10,000Rp, 20,000Rp
Credit Cards - I found them pointless, but if you are going over for business, I'm sure a few wholesale places would accept them, and maybe if you are not doing the whole "budget accommodation" thing. Bring as a backup.

Rupiah(Rp.)
Coins - 50, 100, 500, 1000, Rp.
Notes - 100 500 1000 5000 10,000 20,000 50,000 100,000

Conversion is approx 6200Rp = AUD$1.00
(actually, it fluctuates from about 6,200Rp up to about 6,700Rp)

Money Exchangers:
I didn't have a problem with them, but then I asked other travellers which they recommended and got the honest ones. Other travellers that I spoke to weren't so lucky, so watch when they count out your money, have your own calculator, exchange in $100 dollar increments so its easy to work out the exchange rate in your head. Re-count it in front of them before you leave. They like to be tricky such as counting out many different looking notes, watch out especially if they try to distract you while counting out the money, as many work in pairs. If you do get stung, go get security/police and hope they are still there.

Change:
It is common for Supermarkets/Shopping centres to give you candy (mentos) instead of coin change.

Distance between Towns & Apx Cost

2004-05-06T04:37:00.000+10:00

Airport to
- Kuta/South Kuta 3.5km (15min)
- Legian 5-6km (20min)
- Ubud 35-40km (1hr15min)
- Lovina 120km (3hrs)

Kuta Square to
- Legian 2-3km (10min)
- Ubud 32-37km (1hr15min)
- Lovina 115km (3hrs)

Prices based from Ngurah Rai Airport (ph 751011 ex 1454)(south of Kuta)
referred to internationally as just Denpasar (DPS)

Taxi's - Prepaid Airport Fares
Kuta Beach 11,000 Rp
Legian 16,500 Rp
Denpasar 20,000 Rp
Ubud 65,000 Rp
Cheaper if you get a prepaid taxi from airport to Bemo corner in Kuta, then get a metered taxi or a public bemo to Denpasar or.. Walk It's only 3km to Bemo Corner

Regarding Taxi's
Look for the Light BLUE taxi's, they are very cheap (metred taxi), honest, friendly and air conditioned. All of those who I got, could understand me too, and speak a little English. If you get another taxi, you will need to bargain, or, if they have a metre, ask that they turn it on, it will ALWAYS be cheaper than your bargaining.

In Denpasar, use these 2 Taxi companies:
Komotra - 499449
Bluebird - 7511111

In Kuta just use the light blue or darker blue taxi's, and ensure they turn on the metre.
And in Ubud, you can walk everywhere, else, the street transport guys (Bemo) are your only option, I didn't see any cabs there. If you are going solo like me, then the cheapest way is to just get on the back of someone's scooter/motorbike, if you are going to another region, then car/van is best. I paid 80,000Rp ($13) to get from Ubud to Kuta, and 150,000Rp from Kuta to Ubud.
I think 80,000Rp is a fairer price, they win, you win. It is an 1.5 hr drive afterall.
If your bargaining skills are good, you can hire them for an entire day for 100-130,000Rp. On day trips you will be expected to buy meals for the driver, on over-night trips, you might be expected to pay for their accommodation.

Car Rental
Need International Licence (acquire in your own country first)
Suzuki Katara or Jimny 80,000 Rpm to 120,000 Rp per day - Automatics are Uncommon
I saw lots of tourists renting scooters/motorbikes, and a few with very shocking injuries. It's about 50,000Rp a day if you don't bargain. You will get hassled by the corrupt police and will have give them money to avoid being locked up. The guy's I spoke with who rented, got hassled by the police nearly everyday, and nearly everyday they would have to pay about 200,000Rp, so if you think about it, unless you are extremely lucky and you go undetected, it costs more to hire your own transport than to hire a driver.

Diving

2004-05-06T02:30:00.000+10:00

Indonesia has many excellent spots through out archipelago because most of them are far from the main tourist area.

Bali: Most common and popular islands. Try east part of the island. Many agents are in Kuta. They take you to various spots around Bali. Padanbai, Candidasa, Amed and Tulamben in E of Bali has many agents.

Lombok: Gili islands are very famous. But recently these 3 islands became too popular.

source: http://www.itisnet.com/

Open A level Introductory Diving / 24 hour(s)
This is a particularly good option if you have no experience in the water. two introductory diving (two dives) on these sites : Amed, Tulamben, Padang Bay. This package available everyday, beginners will be allowed to dive with the guide only when authorized by our PADI instructor. As PADI Dive center in Bali, we strive to make your diving course here an enjoyable and pleasant experience. We have equipped pur classroom, the full PADI integrated teaching system, includin the complete Video system, over head projector, and full PADI materials.Facility:
Included in this package are:
BCD + Regulator + Wet - Suit + Snorkeling Equipment
Insurance.
Transportation sea and land.
Lunch Box.
Cold Soft Drink.
Instructor/Dive Master
Sea Transportation:
Big outrigger Boats with twin engine Yamaha, 85 HP each for up to 20 divers for Nusa Penida and up to 25 divers for Sanur and Nusa Dua area,
Speed boats with twin engine Yamaha, 115 HP each, can take 12 diver maximum.
Traditional boats for Sanur Dive Only, can take up to 8 Divers.
Region: Nusa Dua
Price : USD$ 87.00 / person
http://www.kecak.com/course/baliothers_course.html

Emergency Contacts

2004-05-04T16:35:00.000+10:00

Australian Embassy - Denpasar
ausconbali@denpasar.wasawtara.id
0361 235 09213
Emergency - 234139 ex 3311

Emergency
Ambulance - 118
Fire Brigade - 113
Police - 110

International Operator number - 101
Airline Bookings -
Travel Agent - (Escape Travel) 03 9317 7666

Airline helpline - (Air Paradise)
Denpasar - Pertokoan Kuta Megah Blok I - J
Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai - Kuta - Bali 80361
t: +62 361 756 666
f: +62 361 766 100
e: reservation@airparadise.co.id

Hotel Numbers -

Insurance Company Contact details - (RACV) +80079976000 or Reverse Charges on +61733057429 or Within Australia on 1800010265.

Next of Kin -

Fees - Temples, Museums, etc

2004-05-02T15:30:00.000+10:00

Museums, Temples - apx 1,500 - 3,000Rp (up to 50c)
Donation to above - apx 5,000Rp (AUD80c)

Tipping - not expected, but waiting staff are poorly paid, tips of 2,000-3,000 Rp are acceptable for good service

Tipping at airport (porters) - just give your $2 Aussie Gold Coin, or up to 5,000Rp, these guys are sneaky and will try and fool you into paying heaps.. and you don't even need them.. you can carry your own bags the whole 5 steps from baggage collection to "outside"... but the sneaky buggers will try and pick up your bags anyway, and even if they just pick it up, they will immediately ask for a tip. It's a crap way to start a foreign holiday but hopefully you will now be prepared.

Health - Medical - Emergency

2004-04-30T15:15:00.000+10:00

Bali International Medical Centre operated by Australians
(five mins from main Kuta area, between Nusa Dua and Sanur)
Jalan By Pass Ngurah Rai No 100X
Kuta, 80361, Bali
Tel :62-361- 761263 Fax :62-361- 764345

Their website: http://www.bimcbali.com/ has info on medical risks in Bali (temp tattoos - dermatitis, sea urchin puncture, dengue fever, bird flu, sars, swimmer's ears, celulits, sunburn, dehydration, insect bites, malaria, etc.)

Vaccinations - Malaria (tablets), Typhoid, Hepatitis A & B are recommended if you are going to visit remote areas of Bali.

Internet Rates

2004-04-28T15:21:00.000+10:00

Bali has no shortage of internet cafes where you can check your mail. Internet Cafes are in all the major tourist areas such as Kuta, Nusa Dua, Sanur, Legian, Denpasar, Ubud, Candidasa and Lovina. Most of the major hotels will have a business center of internet cafe in house.

Kuta, Legian, Ubud, - 400 - 500 Rp per minute
Sanur, Nusa Dua, Lovina - 600 per min
Some places = min 10,000 - 15,000 Rp

If you are bringing your laptop you need to check with your ISP regarding roaming agreements. Alternatively you can connect to Telkomnet which requires no registration.

Telephone Number: 080989999
User ID: telkomnet@instan
Password: Telkom

Ideal if you want to check your hotmail, yahoo or free email account you may be using while traveling or if you just need internet connection for surfing the web.

Best local Indonesian ISP with reliable fast connection - Indosatnet
Dial Up Package (plus 10% vat) - Registration Fee 45,000
• Bronze Package [25 hours access] 100,000
• Silver Package [50 hours access] 180,000
• Gold Package [200 hours access] 700,000
Charge per additional hour 3,500

Source: http://www.bali-paradise.com/telecommunications/index.cfm

Itinerary Guide - 30 Days

2004-04-26T01:26:00.000+10:00

I didn't have a plan, but this is what my Itenery ended up looking like, if I go again, I would cover more of the island, and will bring some friends.
1 day Airport, South Kuta, Hotel Check in, Familiar with surroundings
4 days Kuta, Shopping, Nightlife, cooking course
3 days Denpasar, Denpasar Market, Sanur
2 days Ubud, Ubud Market, Massage, Relax
5 days Kuta, shopping, nightlife
4 days Ubud, massage, language lessons, cremation ceremony
1 dayDenpasar Art/Craft Festival - Opening Ceremony
1 day Ubud, language lesson
6 days Kuta, shopping, beach, nightlife

Kuta and Seminyak are the party places. Lots of Western tourists and places to accommodate them. You can have any type of holiday you want in Bali, no doubt about it. Kuta/Seminyak have heaps of night clubs.

In Kuta, the place to be seen for Aussies is Paddies in Legian St. Right next door is the coolest place in Bali, the Apache Reggae Bar, you won't find many tourists in there, but check it out if you like that seen, I loved that place. And then you have the Bounty, full of Javanese prostitutes and a lot of sleaze. Read my diary for more info about these places.

In Seminyak, the nightclubs are full, loud, and really "happenin'", but it wasn't my scene at all.

In Ubud, the Putra Reggae Bar (watch the friendly, love-starved staff) is the place I liked the best for it's atmosphere, but there are other places there. Ubud is quieter than Kuta, so the entertainment is more relaxed too. It is here where you'll find restaurants that provide traditional dances/shows.

Languages in Bali

2004-04-24T14:31:00.000+10:00

What language do they speak in Bali?
Bahasa Indonesia is the language of Indonesia and the Balinese speak Balinese among themselves. However, English is widely spoken everywhere and you can easily get by.

Bahasa Indonesia
In Indonesia this is particularly a problem with vowels. The letter 'I' is pronounced "ee" in Bahasa Indonesia … thus the westerner hears the letter "E".

The letter "E" in Bahasa Indonesia is pronounced "eh" which the westerner often interprets to mean "A".

A is pronounced 'aa' in Bahasa Indonesia. Thus I/E and A/E are often heard/written incorrectly.

There is only one important point, though: in Indonesian, the letter 'c' is pronounced 'ch', so cap cai is pronounced 'chap-chai': the letter 'k' is used for hard k-sounds. There one notable exception, though: Coke is pronounced as in western English, probably because it wouldn't sell too well if pronounced correctly in Indonesian...

To locate a toilet, ask for the
KAMAR MANDI (bathroom)
KAMAR KECIL (little room)
WC (pronounced WAYSAY)

A = aa
E = eh
I = ee
C = ch
k = hard k

Learn Bahasa Indonesia in 7 days (words and sound):
www.seasite.niu.edu/

Intensive 10 week course studying language, culture, and staying with a host family
12 - 23 July 2004 - AUD$1120.00
http://www.ialf.edu/bahasabali.html
Bali
Jalan Kapten Agung 17
Denpasar 80232 Bali
Tel. (62-361) 225-243
Fax (62-361) 263-509
ialfbali@ialf.edu
http://www.ialf.edu/bahasa.html
emailed them about "chit chat" program, which is a 2hr a day program (AUD$50 per hr!) OUCH!

Exchange english for indonesian, learn native talk
http://www.mylanguageexchange.com/Learn/Indonesia.asp

other tips from this travel writer:
learning_bahasa_indonesia.htmlcommon phrases:
http://www.lombok-network.com/learning/

Sanur
Bali International School in Sanur ph 288770

Balinese
Wow, click on the following link for a great site which covers a fair bit of the Balinese language:
http://www.balitouring.com/bali_articles/balinesean.htm
This person has spelled out words so one can read them phonetically and actually speak the language:
http://coralreeffish.com/balinese.htm
Learning Indonesian & Balinese (includes AUDIO)
http://www.batukaru.info/language/greeting.htm

Menu - Food - Drinks

2004-04-22T13:26:00.000+10:00

Rice (Nasi) is the basis of most Indonesian meals.
Noodle (Mie) is common in Chinese dishes.

There are many regional specialties. More expensive international dishes are widely available in the tourist areas. Street hawkers and Warungs offer the cheapest local food. Check the level of hygiene first.

Indonesian Specialities
Sate- charcoal-grilled chicken or mutton pieces usually served with peanut sauce
Nasi goreng- fried rice
Nasi campur- cold rice served with meat, vegetables, tofu and fermented beans
Gado gado-salad with peanut sauce and prawn crackers
Cap cai - fried vegetables
Ayam goreng - fried chicken
Mie Bakso- noodle soup
Rijsttafel - rice with as many as 15 different side dishes.

Tried them all except the last 2, and every one of them is YUM YUM YUM! Especially the Nasi Goreng, Chicken Satay, and Gado Gado, but give me any of them and I will be happy! I stuck with the local food for every single meal except once I went to the mexican place, one night I had pizza at Tubes, a baked potato at Tubes, and I tried KFC with some kids one day. I didn't meet anyone that didn't love the food.

I highly recommend 3 places in Kuta for meals:
1. Aquarius Star Hotel in Legian St.. try their Nasi Goreng Special (MMM!) and banana pancakes (aprox 14,000Rp per meal - AUD$2.26)
2. Art Goes in Legian St.. lots of things to try, they have pizza til about midnight I think, but I think I had Cap Cai.. whatever I had there though, it was yum. (apx 10,000Rp)
3. a little place in-between Popies I & 2 (there's only 3 there, so it won't be hard to find), darned if I can remember the name of it, but it's sooooooo cheap and the food is ok, not delicious, but since they cost about 6,000Rp-10,000Rp - it's local food, it doesn't make you sick, it tastes ok, and it's CHEAP.

Desserts
Pisang goreng - banana fritters
Bubur - sweet black rice with coconut milk
Es buhah & es campur - crushed ice with fruits and condensed milk.
*** You need to try the Banana Pancakes, everyone makes them slightly different and they are soooo delicious! drizzled with honey.. mmm

Drinks
Kopi - Coffee, local coffee is excellent and cheap, from Rp200. More expensive nescafe and expresso is also available
Fruit juices/shakes are available in every travelers-style restaurant.
Bottled beer, & soft drinks are available everywhere.

Fruits
Rambutan: similar to a lychee, has hairy, red skin.
Durian: huge, smelly, spiky fruit
Nanka (Jack-fruit) similar to Durian, used a lot in cooking.
Manggis (Mangosteen) round, purple fruits with soft white clusters inside - delicious.
Belimbing - star fruit.

Tap Water - Not drinkable, even the locals do NOT drink the water. Buy mineral water, it's cheap! 500ml water = 1,500Rp (25c), 1.5L water = 3000 Rp (50c) at supermarkets / mini markets.

Cheap, Good Restaurants
Ubud is the gourmet highlight of Bali - Balinese, Indonesian, Asian, European, & Fusion cuisine, also in Kuta - Nusa Dua / Tanjung Benoa, Sanur, & Lovina.

Warung & Foodcarts
Streetcart = approx 1,000Rp - 5,000Rp (up to 0.80c)

Tourist Restaurants
Breakfast - omelettes, pancakes, jaffles
Lunch & Dinner - steaks, spaghetti, hamburgers, pizza, nachos
Kuta-Legion and Denpasar have - McDonalds, KFC, Subway, PizzaHut, etc.

Kuta - try TJ's California~Mexican Bar & Restaurant in Poppies Lane I. ph 0361751093
Not cheap but yummy Mexican food. I had a Grande for 36,000. Has a great atmosphere.

One place in Kuta that wasn't so nice was TAMAN SARI cottages, staff were friendly though! They are in Poppies Lane II and apparantly quite new... the food was a bit dry, though their chicken satay was delicious.

Matahan Food Court - top floor of the Matahar Department store has good selection - economical Asian Food stalls (aimed at Indonesians rather than Tourists).

Phone Stuff

2004-04-16T08:15:00.000+10:00

Mobile Phones
For users of mobile phones, coverage is excellent in most of the major tourist areas, however service is limited in more remote areas of Bali. It is advised that anyone traveling to Bali with their mobile phone to check with their network operators for their international roaming status prior to traveling.

Cellular service in Indonesia is GSM. If you do decide to bring your mobile phone to Bali, you have the option of purchasing a prepaid calling card to make outgoing calls at a lower cost of calling on your home SIM. They are available from a number of shops displaying the service providers logos, such as IM3, Telkomsel, Satelindo and Pro XL.

My mobile provider, Virgin, doesn't allow me to use my mobile in Bali as I'm on a prepaid plan - Virgin Mobile offers Global Roaming on monthly billed services such as the Dial High Club and Go Low. And you need to have paid your last 3 invoicse on time to activate Global Roaming. Otherwise, you'll need to change to a monthly bill and pay AUD$250 upfront, which is added as a credit to your account.

I don't want to change to a non-prepaid plan, so I'm going to buy a SIM card when I get to Bali and just let my family and a couple of close friends know the number.

You can also rent a mobile phone, although more expensive - see this site (US $7.50/day)

The Country Code for Bali is 62
All area code's in Bali is 0361 except North Bali (Lovina, Sawan, etc) which is 0362
Telephone company is Telkom
Phone Prices - 1 min call to Australia 8,300Rp
Phone cards, a 100 unit card should cost apx 18,000Rp
Mobile - a mobile using GSM system can be used more cheaply if you purchase a prepaid SIM card (Indosat)

Directory Assistance
Local - 108
Long Distance - 106
International - 102

Operator Assisted
Local - 100
International - 101

Emergency
Ambulance - 118
Fire Brigade - 113
Police - 110

Population of Bali

2004-04-16T08:14:00.000+10:00

Bali Indonesia 2004

Denpasar 511,000
Karangasem 33,500
Klungkung 29,200
Kuta 41,100
Negara 34,900
Singaraja 96,400
Tabanan 35,400
Ubud 29,800

Source: The World Gazetteer

Postage Rates

2004-04-16T06:00:00.000+10:00

Postcards & letters = 4,000Rp to Australia, takes apx 7-10days
Express Post = extra 2,000Rp, takes apx 5-y days

Post offices are in every major town and village.
The central post office is located in Denpasar at:
Jl. Raya Puputan, Renon
and is open daily 7.30am - 8.30pm, Sundays 8am - 8pm

Site-seeing Denpasar

2004-04-12T08:20:00.000+10:00

Touristy places are Lombok, Bali, Kuta, Denparar

Airport
Busiest city
Courses
Museum Negeri Promisni Bali (Denpasar), prehistoric artefacts, tools, masks, costumes

The road between Denpasar & Ubud is lined with places making and selling handicrafts

The capital Denpasar is a lively town after dark, when locals visit Pasar Badung, the biggest and busiest market on the island. The word Denpasar means "Next to the Market"

You can get dressed in traditional Balinese costumes and have your picture taken in front of a kitsch backdrop. It's a one hour service and costs $10. For the best backdrops in Denpasar go to Diamond Foto on JI. Thamrin 5, or JI. Diponegoro 100, Blok A-2.
Source: http://www.batukaru.info/travel/photo1.php

Site-seeing Kuta

2004-04-12T06:19:00.000+10:00

Kuta Beach (South Bali) - widest beach, easiest surfing, famous sunset

Kuta is the only place in Bali
where surf breaks over sand instead of coral.

Party
Rafting
Bali Phone Shop - pick up simcard for mobile here (I paid 75,000Rp (AUD$12) with 50,000Rp credit

Kuta & Legian come alive at night with shops and market stalls (handicrafts) & bars, nightclubs and pubs, as well as various cultural performances.

Shopping in Kuta:
DVDS
* In between Popies I & II is a wholesale place. 10,000Rp each for tourists.. no "hard cover" but you can still get the inserts so you can put them in your own covers when you get home, or to fit into the bag ones. I love this place because most of the shops buy from here so it has the most variety and is first to get the new releases.
* Opposite Flora Beach Hotel is Putra DVD, all the DVD's I bought there were 10,000Rp each.
* I bought some for 9,000Rp each at a shop opp. the entrance to the beach Matahari, but I wouldn't recommend going there - they were trying to change the prices at the end of the sale after we had already agreed on the price beforehand.
* There was a great place up-some-stairs that were near the Matahari Shopping Centre, can't remember the street name or how to direct you the right way, so the best advice is to just whisper the words "DVD" in that area, and will have people pouncing on you wanting to drag you into their DVD shops - and THAT gives you bargaining power rather than walking in off the street.
**** In any case, the most you'll pay in Kuta for DVD's is 15,000 which is only about AUD$2.50, so even if you can't bargain or don't want to bargain, you won't get ripped off. (Ubud is another story). ****
Cheap Leather clothes, shoes, and jackets:

Merina Leather: 358 Legian St. Can make within 2-3 days.

Puma: 11 Kuta Theater St. (off legian) Ph 0361 728216 or email majibpumaleather@hotmail.com

Mayong:

Ph 62-361-750549, Clung Wanara St, Beside Matahari Sq.
Designer gold and silver jewellery:
Jonathon Gallery: 109 Legian St
(but best to go direct to source rather than by in 'tourist city' Kuta)
Baby & Kids Clothes:
Kuta Kids/Kuta Classics - Bemo Corner
Smaller household furniture items:
Serendipity Fine Antiques - JL Tunjung Mekan No 176
Designer Shops:
Kuta Square

Nightlife/Bars:
* Tubes bar/restaurant - located in Popies II is the place where all the surfers hang out, with at least one screen that has surfers/waves all day long, and at least 3 x new-release movies everyday. Open til about midnight everynight.
* Popies I & II have a few restaurant/bars that have movies or sport and cater for the tourists.
* Legian St, Kuta (the main shopping street) has the popular Paddies Nightclub (full of drunken Aussies), Bounty Danceclub (full of drunken Aussies and sleazebags and prostitutes), and Apache Reggaebar (full of locals with dreadlocks and a live reggaeband)
* Seminyak (keep going up Legian St about 3km, and you'll get the "new nightlife". Before the bombing, the nightlife used to always be around the Legian St area, but since has moved up to Seminyak, there are HEAPS of places to choose from, they get started around 11:00pm.
* Kuta Beach - Apparantly there are a few good ones here, including one that is supposed to be really popular called Studio 66 or something like that, I didn't end up making the effort to go, cos I liked my Apache.. :)
* Karoke Fri/Sat nights at Kak Man Pub on J1 Teuku Umal

Tourguides
Ivan (1st guy on left) - ivanhut@yahoo.com - 081338712818
Jupri (2nd pic)) - a_joopree@hotmail.com - +628174721627
I recommend both these guys, but only to those of you who are going to be friendly as these guys are my friends now and I saw the way that some Aussies treated the locals and I don't want to be apart of it :) So if you want some friendly company from some guys that know the area well, then definitely give these guys a call and work out your own custom-tour of Bali with them, depending on your budget, and interests. Both can speak English perfectly.
I spent a lot of time with Jupri and he is very intelligent, he really listens to tourists so has more of a clue about what they do and don't like (ie: he won't ever hassle you and will only try and help you have a good time), he knows the area well, knows which places to stay at, to eat at, and by listening to you, will be able to custom-make a tour that suits what you want to get out of bali.
You can usually find both guys hanging around Legian St / Bemo Corner area.

Tours
eco cycling tour AUD $58 per person, min 2
It is a "downhill" cycling tour. I'm definitely going to do it next time, in the end, I got a bit too lazy to do anything, so make sure you organise your tours in the first week :)
This is the little brochure I got, but Nick, a guy I met over there, said that it was really worthwhile and that he had a ball. "Cycling past local craftmen at work, through a landscape with lush and fertile vegetation. This amazing tropical island is still rich with distinctive customs and culture. The smiling faces of the Balinese await your arrival, an invitation to their traditional compound and temple. Fabulous refreshment stops! Continue cycling amongst fields of local fresh fruits and vegetables. Higher altitudes offer scenic views of the beautiful mountains and terraced rice fields. A pleasant walk brings you to the village of Gulingan, Mengwi, famous for its traditional Balinese Cooking Lessons. Enjoy your delicious meal, sit back and experience this wonderful tropical Bali"
Pickup Time - 7.45am, Telephone: (62) 361 237 782, they also have a hotline: (62) 361 248082

More
Surfing, Sailing, Diving, Fishing, Rafting, Camel Rides, Horse Riding
Massage (bargain down to 10,000 Rp 1/2 hr, 20,000 Rp - 1 hr) if backyard dodgy rather than proper salon.

Site-seeing Lovina

2004-04-12T04:46:00.000+10:00

Dolphin Trip - Approx 30,000 Rp
go out on a boat at sunrise

Djani's Restaurant (ph 41708), 2 hr cooking course (in English), including shopping in the morning market and preparing of about 5 or 6 traditional recipes
Cost is 100,000 Rp per person, min 2 people

Yoga & Meditation Classes - Hotel Celuk Ajung (ph 41039)
Cost US $7 - 1 hr session

Agung's Massage (ph 42018)
Massage and Body Scrub 41,000Rp for 1.5 hrs

Site-seeing Ubud

2004-04-12T02:21:00.000+10:00

Market
Language Courses
Arts
Cooking
Balinese Music & Dance
Massage, Manicure, Body Scrub
Arts, Crafts, Antiques
Painting & Carving
Gunung Kawi (ancient, strange stone statues cut into cliffs)
White water river rafting
Ubud is Bali's Culinary Capital - best food
Temples
Neka Museum (Ubud) history of Bali art
Museum Puri Lukisa (Ubud) fine art in gardens
Walking around the Rice fields
Monkey Forest
Jungle Trek (leaves from Ubud, but site-sees the Reserve) US$49
Breakfast with the Birds (Bali Bird Park & Ubud) US$35

The road between Denpasar & Ubud is lined with places making and selling handicrafts

Massage
There are heaps of salons in Ubud, heaps!
If you want to relax, head there for a great deal.
Don't use the street people here :( Don't make my mistake (read my diary for more).
But the salons made me forget all that and really soak it up.

I went to Verona Esthetic Salon & Body Spa in Monkey Forest Rd.
Prices:
Total Experience Package (260,000Rp - AUD$42) which includes 1hr 45 min Massage, Body Scrub, Face Mask, Facial, Hair Creme Bath, Rose Petal Bath with Ginger Tea and Fruit Salad, Manicure & Pedicure. Hours of luxury and pampering :)
If you choose 3 items from their list, they will do a special price for you, some examples of individual items are:
1hr 45min Massage + Body Scrub = 90,000Rp (AUD $14.50)
1hr Sunburn treatment = 90,000Rp (AUD $14.50)
1hr Balinese Massage = 60,000Rp(AUD $10)
1hr Acupressure Massage = 75,000Rp (AUD $12)
45min Reflexology Massage = 50,000Rp (AUD $8)
1hr Facial = 75,000Rp (AUD $12)
Manicure (inc French) = 50,000Rp (AUD $8)
Pedicure = 50,000Rp (AUD $8)
1 hr Hair Creme Bath = 60,000Rp (AUD $10)
Hair Brading (short 125,000 - med 175,000 - long 225,000)
Waxing from 50,000Rp to 200,000Rp (AUD $8-32)

Other places to go in Ubud:
Puspa Salon in Monkey Forest Rd
Shoulder Massage = 35,000Rp (AUD $5.60)
Manicure/Pedicure = 35,000Rp (AUD $5.60)
1 hr Massage = 55,000Rp (AUD $9)

Denita Beauty Salon at 59 Hanoman St
1hr Massage = 50,000Rp (AUD $8)
1hr Facial = 50,000Rp (AUD $8)
Hair Braiding (short 100,000 - med 120,000 - long 140,000)
Waxing from 35,000Rp to 195,000Rp(AUD $5.60 - $31.50)
1/2 hr Manicure = 30,000Rp (AUD $4.80)
1/2 hr Pedicure = 35,000Rp (AUD $5.60)

Oh yeah, and most of them are open til 9pm and some will even provide transport to/from your hotel.

Site-Seeing - More Ideas

2004-04-12T01:00:00.000+10:00

General Rules
Touristy places - Lombok, Bali, Kuta, Denpasar
Sun, Sea, Beach scene - Kuta, Sanur, Lovina
Balinese Art, Culture, Good Food, Market, Rural walks - Ubud
Busiest city, Transport, Courses - Denpasar

Beaches
Kuta Beach (South Bali) - widest beach, easiest surfing, famous sunset
Mushroom Bay (Nusa Lembongan) super snorkelling

Museums
Neka Museum (Ubud) history of Bali art
Museum Puri Lukisa (Ubud) fine art in gardens
Museum Negeri Promisni Bali (Denpasar), prehistoric artefacts, tools, masks, costumes

Outdoor Activities
Walking
- Rice fields around Ubud
- Trekking up the 2 great volcanos (Gunung Batur and Gunung Agung)
Rafting
Surfing
Diving & Snorkelling
- safe snorkling @ Amed

Scenery
Penelokan (Central mountains) amazing volcanic views, lakes, and lava
It's a bit of a walk down to the cliffs, but put a visit to the 11th century Hindu carvings and tombs at Gunung Kawi on the top of your "to-do" list. This is one of Bali's best sights and the shady river setting is ideal for a picnic. There's always plenty of vendors around selling fresh fruit and simple food. Perfect. source: roughguides

Temples & Monuments Gunung Kawi (Tampaksiring) - shirines cut into cliffs Pura Besakih (East Bali) - Bali's "Mother Temple" Pura Luhur Viv Watu (South Bali) - clifftop temple Pura Rambut
Siwi (West Bali) - clifftop temple

Highlights of Bali tour
AUD$35 per person - 9am-5pm - min 2, but you can go alone with another couple that the tour company organises, like I did. Company is Tour East

Kintamani Volcano/Mount Batur

making of a Gamelan Orchestra

Archaelogical Museum

Sri Batu (cheap saffron!)

Panglipuran Village

Bakit Jati (nice views!)

an expensive lunch at Kintamani Restaurant (85,000Rp) but all-you-can-eat

62 361 725833 or saptadps@indo.net.id
I went on it, I wouldn't go on it again, but if you are going to go on this tour, I would recommend that you do it in the first couple of days of arriving in Bali as it gives you a good overview of the Balinese culture. I went in my last week, after being there almost a month and didn't appreciate it as much as I could've, but I still had a good day.

Just across the water from East Java sits Bali, the longtime jewel in the crown of Indonesian tourism, a tiny island of elegant temples, verdant landscape and fine surf.

The biggest resorts are the party towns of Kuta and adjacent Legian, with the more subdued beaches at Lovina and Candi Dasa appealing to travellers not hell-bent on raging nightlife.

Most visitors also spend time in Bali's cultural centre of Ubud, whose lifeblood continues to be painting, carving, dancing and music-making.

The islands east of Bali – collectively known as Nusa Tenggara – are now attracting bigger crowds, particularly neighbouring Lombok, with its beautiful beaches and temples.

East again, the chance of seeing the world's largest lizards, the Komodo dragons, draws travellers to Komodo and then it's an easy hop across to Flores which has great surfing, and the unforgettable coloured crater lakes of Keli Mutu.

South of Flores, Sumba is famous for its intricate fabrics, grand funeral ceremonies and extraordinary annual ritual war, the pasola.

Lombok - Music & Dance (has dances not found elsewhere in Indonesia, but not marketed, exclusive to luxury hotels and village of Lenek)
Religion 90% Islam/Muslims

The peak tourist season is between mid-June and mid-September and again over the Christmas and New Year season.

Villages:
Celuk - noted for silver and goldsmithing
Mas - woodcarving

The Bali Barrat National Park = flora & fauna, hot springs, guided jungle treks, animals (monkeys, deer, reptiles, birds).

Shopping bargains:
Seminyak
Kemarin Hai Ini: 1200BC JL Raya Basangkasa - Iron and Homeware Pieces
Legian
Nacha Natural: JL Legian Kaja 456 (Gifts)

Timezone

2004-04-10T10:47:00.000+10:00

Bali is 2 hours behind Melbourne
Melbourne 10am = Bali 8am

Bali doesn't have Daylight Savings.

Tourist Centres

2004-04-10T08:30:00.000+10:00

Ubud: Bali's cultural center and its most attractive town, is an excellent base for exploring Bali, has some of the best value food and accommodation options in Indonesia.

Travel & Health Insurance

2004-04-10T06:10:00.000+10:00

4 Weeks in Bali/Indonesia - Single

Worldnomads AUD $104-$114
Doesn't cover pre-existing Medical Conditions, inc Asthma, nor do they give you any options to
Medical Expenses - AUD $5,000,000
Emergency Dental Treatment - AUD $500
Medical Evacuation/Additional Expenses - AUD $500,000
Luggage - AUD $2,500
Personal Liability - AUD $2,500,000

RACV
Doesn't cover pre-existing Medical Conditions, although you can apply for extra as I did, Asthma, as long as it isn't severe, will be covered for extra $50, and excess $250.
It costed $123 for basic cover for 31 days +$50 (Pre-existing) = $173.00
Pretty expensive peace of mind, but I trusted that they would come-through for me, if something had gone wrong, thankfully nothing did :)

WorldCare AUD$113
Covers some pre-existing Medical Conditions. Covers Asthma as long as you haven't been treated for Asthma in past 12 months (as in hospitalised). No extra forms need to be filled out for this pre-existing condition cover to be included

About to head to work so will finish this section later tonight

Visa & Passport Requirements

2004-04-06T01:55:00.000+10:00

Australians - 30 day Tourist Visa
Indonesia has recently introduced a Visa On Arrival fee which affects passengers from many countries including Australia. The Visa fee is USD $10.00 for passengers arriving into Indonesia and staying for a maximum of 3 days, for passengers staying longer than 3 days and up to 30 days the Visa On Arrival fee is USD $25.00.

Have $25 USD in cash ready at airport!!

Note also, all visitors to Bali require a valid passport (6 months past date of entry)

Bali (Kuta - Denpasar - Ubud)

Advice & Notes

Journal

Sunday 27th - Kuta and HOME!

Friday, June 25th, Kuta

Thursday June 24 - Kuta

Wednesday 23rd June - Kuta

Tues June 22 - Kuta

Sunday 20th June - Denpasar and Ubud

Saturday 19th June - Ubud

Friday 18th June - Ubud

Thursday, 17th June, Ubud

Wednesday 16th June, 2004 - Ubud

14th June - Monday

13th June - Sunday

12th June - Saturday - Kuta

10th June - Kuta (Thursday)

9th June - Ubud (Wednesday)

Tuesday 8th June - Ubud

7th June - Monday - Denpasar

Sunday 6th June - Denpasar

Saturday - 5th June - Denpasar

Friday - 4th June

Thurs - 3rd June - 4th Day

2nd June - 3rd Day

My Second Day in Bali

My First Day in Bali

Things I'm glad I took to Bali

Accommodation - Kuta

Accommodation - Ubud

Accommodation Notes/Other

Air Tickets & Flight Advice

Bali Belly

Bargaining & Shopping

Beaches

Courses - Cooking

Courses - Dance

Courses - Other

Cruises

Customs - Toilet - Tips - Temples

Currency & Money Stuff

Distance between Towns & Apx Cost

Diving

Emergency Contacts

Fees - Temples, Museums, etc

Health - Medical - Emergency

Internet Rates

Itinerary Guide - 30 Days

Languages in Bali

Menu - Food - Drinks

Phone Stuff

Population of Bali

Postage Rates

Site-seeing Denpasar

Site-seeing Kuta

Site-seeing Lovina

Site-seeing Ubud

Site-Seeing - More Ideas

Timezone

Tourist Centres

Travel & Health Insurance

Visa & Passport Requirements